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Winterstock South face
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Mangolyto 6a S 
Schindlewäg 5c+ T 
Schwoabaweg 5c T 

Schwoabaweg 5c 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jürgen Fodor, Tim Skinner
Season: As long as the Furka pass is open
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 26, 2011

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The fantastic hand crack on pitch one of Schwoabaw...

Description 

A super cool, moderate trad route on the Winterstock south face (in sections more south-east oriented, so it loses the sun a bit earlier in the afternoon).

Pitches go at 5b, 5a, 5c, 5a, 5b.

The first two pitches follow a fantastic hand crack. The third pitch, very long pitch follows another crack line on steeper terrain, where some stemming moves are possible. The fourth pitch is ascends an easy but very entertaining corner, and the final pitch offers rows of bomber vertical cracks to jam and stem.

At the end of the route, it is possible to tack on the final two pitches of the neighboring Mangolyto route.

A topo can be found in the SAC guidebook for the region.

Location 

The route begins up an unmistakeable handcrack that disects a large slab on the right side of the south face. It is just to the right of "Bello i Impossibile", which is clearly marked with red paint at the base.

Descent is by abseil - either back down the route or the neighboring Mangolyto. 2x50m ropes.

Protection 

All belays have been re-equipped with stainless bolts, and there is a bolt (and the occasional old piton) on every pitch. The line gobbles gear, and a full set of cams and stoppers is recommended.



Photos of Schwoabaweg 5c Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch five of Schwoabaweg
Pitch five of Schwoabaweg
Pitch two of Schwoabaweg
Pitch two of Schwoabaweg
pitch four of Schwoabaweg
pitch four of Schwoabaweg
Brilliant stemming on pitch three of Schwoabaweg
Brilliant stemming on pitch three of Schwoabaweg
Topo of Schwoabaweg
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Schwoabaweg

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