|61 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.9 [details]|
|FA: ||Jürgen Fodor, Tim Skinner |
|Season: ||As long as the Furka pass is open|
|Submitted By: ||Colin Winter on Dec 26, 2011|
The fantastic hand crack on pitch one of Schwoabaw...
A super cool, moderate trad route on the Winterstock south face (in sections more south-east oriented, so it loses the sun a bit earlier in the afternoon).
Pitches go at 5b, 5a, 5c, 5a, 5b.
The first two pitches follow a fantastic hand crack. The third pitch, very long pitch follows another crack line on steeper terrain, where some stemming moves are possible. The fourth pitch is ascends an easy but very entertaining corner, and the final pitch offers rows of bomber vertical cracks to jam and stem.
At the end of the route, it is possible to tack on the final two pitches of the neighboring Mangolyto route.
A topo can be found in the SAC guidebook for the region.
The route begins up an unmistakeable handcrack that disects a large slab on the right side of the south face. It is just to the right of "Bello i Impossibile", which is clearly marked with red paint at the base.
Descent is by abseil - either back down the route or the neighboring Mangolyto. 2x50m ropes.
All belays have been re-equipped with stainless bolts, and there is a bolt (and the occasional old piton) on every pitch. The line gobbles gear, and a full set of cams and stoppers is recommended.
Pitch two of Schwoabaweg
Brilliant stemming on pitch three of Schwoabaweg
pitch four of Schwoabaweg
Pitch five of Schwoabaweg
BETA PHOTO: Topo of Schwoabaweg