Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Easy Bake Alcove
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumnal Bliss S 
Babies in the House S 
Color of Optimism, The S 
Crucial Taunt S 
Lightbulb Not Included S 
Lost in Tuff S 
Schwing! S 
Seashells Shall Shine, The S 
Stray Capacitance S 

Schwing! 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jason Halladay
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Going big for the sloper through the crux of Schwi...

Description 

Schwing! is the four-bolt direct start to Crucial Taunt, naturally.

Start directly below the anchors for Crucial Taunt and climb up a small pillar to a nice stance on top of the pillar. Get psyched for the fun boulder problem crux above. Crank up past a superb pocket to difficult moves to a sloper on the right. Keep it going for a few more tricky and difficult moves to the fourth bolt and then easier climbing on the steep finish of Crucial Taunt. The crux boulder problem favors taller climbers and is more difficult for shorter climbers, thus the split grade.

There are two bolts out left after the fourth bolt that allow one to finish on Lightbulb Not Included instead if Crucial Taunt is occupied.


Location 

Almost smack in the middle of the alcove heading up the smooth, clean rock.


Protection 

Four bolts on this line and finish with a couple more clips on either Crucial Taunt or Lightbulb Not Included. The third clip is a bit reachy so climbers may want to hang draws on this route from Crucial Taunt



Photos of Schwing! Slideshow Add Photo
Still cruxing on Schwing! but almost to easier ground. Fred Berman photo. March 2014.
Still cruxing on Schwing! but almost to easier gro...
Comments on Schwing! Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 23, 2014

Possible to bypass the difficult crux sequence by moving right and pulling on thin 5.11 edges, probably not legit since doing so has you 1 step away from the Crucial Taunt line.

(edit to add: I didn't yet red point with either variation. Tried and failed on the boulder problem first a few times. I worked it out going right starting from the bolt at the crux, which is just off a pretty good rest at the flake, and it's relatively easy to get there. I didn't lower off and start over, still felt like the real line was the boulder problem and avoiding it right was a cop out and not particularly aesthetic.)

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 23, 2014

Despite a number of attempts, and a few by me, I haven't seen anyone pull off the bypass to the right on lead without first hanging on the bolt at the crux. It's really hard to climb into it naturally. But if it goes, that's cool in that it keeps the difficultly a bit more in line with the climbing below and above the crux.
That said, the bouldery crux is super fun!