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Routes in The Monkey House
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Ape Index S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fuck Monkey T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Fuzzy Monkey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gneiss! S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Monkey See, Monkey Do (after the break) S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Alan Nelson and Ken Trout, 1992 |
| Page Views: | 6,127 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on May 13, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
This route begins about 100 foot uphill from the black water streak and Psycho Hose Beast, approximately 50 feet right of the overhang area with Monkey See Monkey Do. The climbing starts up in the grey rock where a band of pegmatite crosses horizontally. Pull up to the first clip on some interesting quartz edges. After several clips, a thin series of horizontal seams delivers the crux at middle 5.11 climbing. It is a bit reachy and a bit thin, but it is a very cool series of moves in the crux. The route feels a little spacey after stepping above the crux seam, but the climbing settles back to 5.9/5.10 moves.
Its good continuity, fun moves, and excellent stone are worth the double stars. This is another fine addition from the Master of Clear Creek, Alan Nelson. The man must be crazy, he just never stops.
Protection
Name change history
Ken Trout requested that we change the name of this route to Gneiss! He noted that the name Schwing Salute came from him noting it was one of the first routes he placed bolts on in Clear Creek Canyon that he thought had truly good rock. It made him realize CCC was not a just pile of rubble but a worthwhile area to develop. He made the name change due to not wanting to offend women, who found the name offensive.
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