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 ADVANCED
Piz Ciavazes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Bergfuehrerweg"/ Route of the Guides. T 
Abram Arete T 
Big Micheluzzi T 
Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little Micheluzzi." T 
Rampenfuehre / "Ramp" Route T 
Schubert T 
Via Irma T 
Via Rossi - Tomasi T 
Zeni Corner T 
Unsorted Routes:

Schubert 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 820'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pit Schubert, Karl Heinz Matthies. 1967
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,356
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Path off the mountain

Description 

This is a great line. It is steep, exposed, and continuous!

Pitch 1 - The crux right off the bat! Climb the right-facing corner then up steep slabs. (35m)

Pitch 2 - Climb broken cracks up and slightly right to near the large gully right of the route. (45m)

Pitch 3 - Follow a line that links up a series of more broken cracks to a small stance near the gully to the right. (45m)

Pitch 4 - Step left and climb slabs to the right of a groove. (35m)

Pitch 5 - Be careful not to get off route! Do not continue up the groove! Move left and find a crack that leads up to some face and a ledge. (35m)

Pitch 6 - Take the ramp up and right and face climb to a poor belay stance. (40m)

Pitch 7 - Face climb straight up to the large terrace. (50m)

Descent - From the final belay, climb up and right and then traverse left to the gully between Piz Ciavazes and the Second Sella Tower. Then scramble down to the road.

Location 

The route ascends the South Face of the Piz Ciavazes. Park on Sella Pass road about level with the face. Look for a climbers trail that leads up to the base.

Protection 

There are a number of pins in place. Also brings a selection of nuts and slings. A few small cams could also be useful.


Photos of Schubert Slideshow Add Photo
Near the top of pitch 2
Near the top of pitch 2
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
View from the top of pitch 5.
View from the top of pitch 5.
Route Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Route Topo.
The entire Piz Ciavazes wall on a typical day
The entire Piz Ciavazes wall on a typical day
Final pitch
Final pitch
Close up of the wall
BETA PHOTO: Close up of the wall
Pretty obvious route.
Pretty obvious route.

Comments on Schubert Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joe Varela
Aug 6, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route and fairly consistent for the first 5 pitches or so
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Definitely a bit stouter than the Big Micheluzzi route and a bit more run-out in the hard sections. Be sure to have some small gear (RPs, small cams) for some of the thin cruxes. More of a challenge than some of the other routes in the area requires a bit more precision climbing great warm up for something like the Messner route on the back side of Sella Towers.

Approach - Park in the dirt lot across the road from the wall and hike to the base - 10 minutes. Descent - at the half way point in the wall walk left across the entire mountain to the col between the Sella towers and Piz Ciavazes - descend into the grass then work your way back through the forest and down to your car.