Schoolyard Bully 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 25 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Darren Knezek, Tristan Higbee |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Tristan Higbee on Aug 2, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: The route, with the gear placements marked. The en...
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Description If the landing were nice and sandy and flat, this would make a great highball boulder problem. As it is, with tons of jagged boulders, it's a really fun cam-protected, bouldery trad line. The route starts near the right side of the slightly overhanging face that you pass as you enter into the Recess. To avoid spoling the fun, all I'll say is go up and enjoy the fun moves!
Location This route is right before you enter the Recess proper. It is the left side of the "notch" that is mentioned in the guidebook (the notch that you aim for when hiking up).
Protection We used three pieces. The first was a small gold/yellow WC Tech Friend. The second was a green C3. The third was a yellow/gold C3. Other brands of cam the same sizes would work just fin, too. There are no fixed anchors on top.
| Comments on Schoolyard Bully |
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By Tristan Higbee From: Mexico Aug 2, 2009
| This is the Hardest Route at the Recess, though it has the same rating as Crash Test. This route is more bouldery and sustained (though better protected). Crash Test has just a couple not-too-bad moves. |
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