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Schoolroom West 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,150
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 19, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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Maura on the first pitch of Schoolroom West. A cl...
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Description 

Schoolroom West is a great multi-pitch route on the left side of the Schoolroom Wall. This climb is more quality than the standard Schoolroom because it avoids the squeeze chimney and the long traverses. Climb it in 3 to 5 pitches. Breaking it into 3 pitches is most sensible.

P1) Scramble up the opening part of Schoolroom (easy 5th class) through possibly loose blocks. Traverse right to a tree at the base of a right facing dihedral (optional belay here). Continue up the dihedral to a large belay pod. Belay at a small tree with slings backed up with some gear.

P2) Climb a short section up a steep slick slab using a wide crack. Protection in the wide part would require a 4.5 camalot up higher (not necessary). Clip a fixed pin and wander up and slightly right through little bulges to a small tree (optional belay). Continue up through 2 or 3 more bulges with bomber hand jams to a large belay ledge with a tree.

P3) Climb the nice hand crack which is the last pitch of Schoolroom. Follow it until you can step left and traverse downward to the rappel tree. Another good option is to climb the Movie Variation crack just to the right. It is tricky for 5.8, but takes excellent pro.

Descent) Rap 80' from the top of P3 to a ledge. Traverse left a few feet to a set of chain anchors. Make a 100' rap down to the ground. A 60m rope is helpful, but some downclimbing could be done with a 50m rope.


Protection 

Standard Rack, pro up to a #3 camalot, aliens are useful



Photos of Schoolroom West Slideshow Add Photo
Schoolroom 5.6 II on the Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon
BETA PHOTO: Schoolroom 5.6 II on the Gate Buttress in Little C...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 2, 2013
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Park City, UT
Mar 20, 2004

The route can be seen on this beta photo, but the standard Schoolroom is the drawn black line. The first pitch climbs up to the tree before the descent in the photo, and follows the leftward trending crack to the obvious pod. Then the rightward trending crack that leads to the circled 4 is the second pitch. Last pitch is the same.

This is a 3-star climb if the Movie Variation is used.

By Nathan Fisher
Aug 18, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Not consistent enough for 3 stars.

By vincent pierce
Sep 15, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Not quite as fun as I thought it would be. I prefer the Schoolroom Direct (even with the chimney). To me the crux was the first 15 feet of the second (or third if u dont link) pitch. Felt harder than 5.7. Kind of awkward but i blindly placed a medium cam up high in the flake, high stepped onto a bump on the right slab and made the move. Ankle breaker if u fall and dont have pro. Definately link this pitch with the fun roof pitch. There isn't any reason not to. Last pitch is good. It loves cams. Next time I will try that scary looking 5.8 on the right!

By philfell
From: Olympic Valley, CA
May 29, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I just climbed this today. We broke it into three pitches and it worked great, although communication was tough in spots. The first part of the second pitch seemed tough for 5.7. It took me a little bit to get a plan of attack for it. I wasn't sure if I should try to lay-back, off-width, slap climb it and ignore the crack, or go on the face to the left with the few chicken heads. Overall the route is really fun with good gear whenever you need it. The final pitch is really fun.

By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
Sep 27, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

I agree with everyones comments. This is not an easy 5.7. Other than the off-width second of Crescent this goes down as one of the harder 5.7 climbs around. There are a few trick moves but they protect extremely well.

By ASENDR
Oct 3, 2005

With a 70meter rope we wre able to climb the route in one pitch with simu-climbing from 20 ft above the big pine tree at the last lower belay. Good pro and a nice direct line up the buttress.

By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 25, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

best way up the cliff. usually nobody on it

By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 21, 2010

Great route that can use more traffic! 1st pitch to the nice ledge below the 2nd pitch flare. A 3 camalot protects the flare well. Use longs slings above to reduce rope drag and go to pine tree below Movie variation for belay. Definitely do Movie as third pitch - protects really well with small cams and nuts. Great climb!

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Apr 2, 2011

The last part of the climb was really good. Fun easy with awesome hand jams. But the first few pitches really weren't all that great. Really easy climbing/scrambling with a couple of just awkward moves here and there. Worth doing once though. I had a single rack and felt like i had plenty of gear.

By Charlie S
From: Ogden, UT
Mar 10, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Second pitch is the best. Typical LCC 5.7 difficulty. Avoids the traverses of standard Schoolroom. A very fun outing!

By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 11, 2013

Enjoyed this much more than repeating schoolroom over and over whenever I climbed with newbies.

By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 2, 2013

If you like Crescent Crack, you'll probably like this. Wonderful first pitch, terrible opening to the second pitch, just like Crescent Crack.

The wide flare is only protectable by a large cam so bring your bigger stuff (#5 probably). I didn't and got sketched out trying to layback the edge of the crack. A fall without a cam in that flare means broken ankles.