Schoolroom Direct Variation 

I feel this is a much better variation to Schoolroom. This route wanders enough as it is. I didn't feel that this start was that much harder than the other pitches. Very fun climb!!

This is a Good way to start schoolroom. There is one hard move at the bottom that protects well with a stoper then a nice slab move that is not hard up higher. If I do this variation I set up a belay about 15 feet past the top of the big chimney and let my second have the nice fun finger crack on the second pitch.

Definately the way to start Schoolroom.

Agreed. Agreed. Agreed. Start Schoolroom here.

This variation seemed preferable to the original, perambulatory 5.6 line. It is a little spooky to traverse out onto the face with your last piece of pro below your feet, but two moves gets you to a bomber, dinner plate sized chicken head. After gaining that chicken head, it looked like you could place a small cam into a crack. I'm guessing it would be maybe 15 feet between pieces? From there, you are into the gully and back on Schoolroom.

The lower crack is well protected with a spot of 5.7, and the slab is insecure 5.7 that is definitely R rated. Your last pro is well below your feet and a fall would be ugly. After a few thin moves, you can get a good small cam in a finger-sized crack before rejoining the regular Schoolroom route.

Pro doesn't have to be way below your feet. There is a great nut or pink tricam righ in the block you stand on before the R moves, just runner it long, and slab away! Great thought provovking move. Seen this stymie hard sport climbers! trust those feet it's LCC!

Rock seemed way solid last year or earlier this year. I didn't question the piece at all. I placed a small nut way on the right side of the crack at your feet.

Use one of them new fangled 60 Meter ropes, and some prudent runnering...and you can go all the way to the Hook ledge.

is this really an R rated climb?

I don't think it's R. The gear is just a few feet below your feet when you make the slab traverse. Some creative use of the big flat chickenhead eliminated a slab move or two for me. This is a much better way to start schoolroom than the pointless block scramble and downclimb/traverse of schoolroom.

The R is for the slab traverse to gain the arcing crack left of the 1st pitch. Note this is the best way to string the first few pitches of school room together. You can link pitches 1-3 this way. making your time up on the school room much shorter if time is your enemy.

I agree..start Schoolroom here, and the slab move is a bit heady but not too difficult.

Couple of finger locks and foot jams will do the trick here. First time up this I ran into a whole load of bees just below the runout section. Is there a rating to incorporate bees? Like 'B'?

This isn't quite a runout climb (can we make a 1/2R rating?) since you're never really too high above your gear at the crux. Though if you fell on the easier terrain before the crack then you could get seriously hurt. I agree with Woodson, more bold than hard. One of the key knobs is greased with chalk making the move feel harder than 5.7.

Found a tick on my backpack at the base of the climb, so be careful.

Totally better way to start; but not a great line to start leading on. The opening crack is a gimme, but yeah, the slab moves are a little committing. Could be a bit nerve wracking for a first time trad leader.

So Crisco, where should one learn how to belay?

I felt the runout section is PG13 in actual distance but the hurt factor from a slip would probably be equivalent to an R rating nonetheless. The slab requires a couple moves of commitment then, yes, you can get a very good small cam in a crack to protect the rest.