Schoolroom Direct Variation
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Here I stand just above the crack portion of the d...
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This is a superb way to start Schoolroom, but it is much harder than anything else on that route. Climb the steep gorgeous finger and hand crack about 40' right of the regular Schoolroom start. At the end of the crack, a few spooky moves left on friction gain the regular route. I didn't think this was very R rated, but it wouldn't be fun to fall on the insecure friction moves.
Stoppers, fingers and hand sized cams.
|Photos of Schoolroom Direct Variation Slideshow
This guy was rope soloing the route. Here he is ma...
Gwen just before the allegedly "R" traverse.
Schoolroom direct towards The Hook and variation
Better have good life insurance..
Garred, Donovan and Jon doin' are thing on are way...
|Comments on Schoolroom Direct Variation
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 22, 2004
I feel this is a much better variation to Schoolroom. This route wanders enough as it is. I didn't feel that this start was that much harder than the other pitches. Very fun climb!!
|By James Naus|
Jul 22, 2004
This is a Good way to start schoolroom. There is one hard move at the bottom that protects well with a stoper then a nice slab move that is not hard up higher. If I do this variation I set up a belay about 15 feet past the top of the big chimney and let my second have the nice fun finger crack on the second pitch.
|By vincent pierce|
Sep 23, 2004
Definately the way to start Schoolroom.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Oct 14, 2004
Agreed. Agreed. Agreed. Start Schoolroom here.
|By Lee Gitlin|
Oct 15, 2004
This variation seemed preferable to the original, perambulatory 5.6 line. It is a little spooky to traverse out onto the face with your last piece of pro below your feet, but two moves gets you to a bomber, dinner plate sized chicken head. After gaining that chicken head, it looked like you could place a small cam into a crack. I'm guessing it would be maybe 15 feet between pieces? From there, you are into the gully and back on Schoolroom.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2004
The lower crack is well protected with a spot of 5.7, and the slab is insecure 5.7 that is definitely R rated. Your last pro is well below your feet and a fall would be ugly. After a few thin moves, you can get a good small cam in a finger-sized crack before rejoining the regular Schoolroom route.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 24, 2005
Pro doesn't have to be way below your feet. There is a great nut or pink tricam righ in the block you stand on before the R moves, just runner it long, and slab away! Great thought provovking move. Seen this stymie hard sport climbers! trust those feet it's LCC!
|By Nathan Fisher|
May 25, 2005
Rock seemed way solid last year or earlier this year. I didn't question the piece at all. I placed a small nut way on the right side of the crack at your feet.
|By Warren Harding's Ghost|
From: Big Wall Purgatory
Sep 12, 2006
Use one of them new fangled 60 Meter ropes, and some prudent runnering...and you can go all the way to the Hook ledge.
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 4, 2008
is this really an R rated climb?
From: Centerville, UT
Nov 5, 2008
I don't think it's R. The gear is just a few feet below your feet when you make the slab traverse. Some creative use of the big flat chickenhead eliminated a slab move or two for me. This is a much better way to start schoolroom than the pointless block scramble and downclimb/traverse of schoolroom.
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
May 24, 2009
The R is for the slab traverse to gain the arcing crack left of the 1st pitch. Note this is the best way to string the first few pitches of school room together. You can link pitches 1-3 this way. making your time up on the school room much shorter if time is your enemy.
From: Park City, Ut.
May 26, 2009
I agree..start Schoolroom here, and the slab move is a bit heady but not too difficult.
From: West Jordan, Utah
Oct 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 PG13
Couple of finger locks and foot jams will do the trick here. First time up this I ran into a whole load of bees just below the runout section. Is there a rating to incorporate bees? Like 'B'?
|By Josh Cameron|
Jul 4, 2011
This isn't quite a runout climb (can we make a 1/2R rating?) since you're never really too high above your gear at the crux. Though if you fell on the easier terrain before the crack then you could get seriously hurt. I agree with Woodson, more bold than hard. One of the key knobs is greased with chalk making the move feel harder than 5.7.
Found a tick on my backpack at the base of the climb, so be careful.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Apr 11, 2013
Totally better way to start; but not a great line to start leading on. The opening crack is a gimme, but yeah, the slab moves are a little committing. Could be a bit nerve wracking for a first time trad leader.
|By James Garrett|
Apr 15, 2013
So Crisco, where should one learn how to belay?
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 1, 2013
I felt the runout section is PG13 in actual distance but the hurt factor from a slip would probably be equivalent to an R rating nonetheless. The slab requires a couple moves of commitment then, yes, you can get a very good small cam in a crack to protect the rest.