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School Gate
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bull King Dihedral 
First Corner 
Oh No! 
Oh! 
Staircase 
Surprise Crack 
Tiger's Tooth 

School Gate 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 30'
Lat, Long: 25.1129, 121.9218 Map
Page Views: 2,849. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Nate Ball, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 10, 2009

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Brian Soong on "Tiger's Tooth" (5.11b sport) at Sc...

Description 

A fairly big block (30 meters tall) with a short approach and 2 nearby neighbors, those being Disco Buttress and Apprentice Rock. There is at least a full day's worth of climbing here to keep you busy if you are inclined to visit. The rock here is the same as for much of the area, compact, hard and in some places, sharp. Crack climbers might consider taping up. There are climbs on Eastwardly and Southerly aspects of this rock and it's several neighbors, as well as a few north facing routes where one can seek shelter from not only sun, but also wind and even light rain if those are a problem.

Be very careful to avoid the active Hornet's nest on the South Face, 60 feet up, nestled into a flare under the roof on one of the 'unknown' named sport-climbs. These do not bother climbers on more distant routes, but if agitated, beware- they are highly toxic and have hospitalized a climber who'd received 17 stings and went unconscious.


Getting There 

Approach via the North Parking (see Area page) and head NE along the coast on a trail for maybe 10 minutes, following it until some large cliffs are seen. The first of the obviously climbable tall cliffs is a large block on your right side, called School Gate. The East and South Faces of this contain several sport and Trad lines, and along it's North face there is a protected Gully that contains a surprisingly good and long sport climb or two.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for School Gate:
Staircase   5.4     Trad, 80 feet   
First Corner   5.12a     Sport, 85 feet   
Browse More Classics in School Gate

Featured Route For School Gate
Anja on "First Corner" at School Gate.

First Corner 5.12a  International : Asia : ... : School Gate
An incredibly fun sport climb for any venue, and certainly one of the best here. This climb has a little of everything, overhanging jugs, slapping of aretes, hidden pockets, technical footwork, and if you stay belly to the bolts (harder) even some flaring jams. The grade will depend on how directly you do the route, but will be in the 5.11 range.Climb up past 2 bolts to a technical crux, where a taller climber can clip the third bolt before risking it (be mindful of the rocks behind you). There ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of School Gate Slideshow Add Photo
hao duo ren

hao duo ren

Sea face

Sea face

The mob descends... blastin' that bubblegum pop for all the kids and yappy dogs

The mob descends... blastin' that bubblegum pop fo...

Overview

Overview

Illusion Wall, contains several 5.10-12 sport routes

Illusion Wall, contains several 5.10-12 sport rout...


Comments on School Gate Add Comment
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By Anmin Deng
From: Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Mar 24, 2012

The name "Apprentice Rock" should spell "Appentice". It means "an architectural structure above a gate in traditional east Asian style", instead of referring to "the relationship as Skywalker to Juda in Starwars movies". It is named after the rock shape and position, at school gate.