This obscure Flatiron crag is located behind (NW) of the Fifth Flatiron, between the summit of the Fourth Flatiron and the Fist or Hippo Head. It's narrow east face contains a significant overhang which resembles a nose. This rock is very rarely visited, probably because of the long approach and nasty bushwhacking that surrounds it. This elusive summit is not easy to reach.
The shortest approach is to thrash up north of the Fifth Flatiron, but this is not recommended. The ideal way to approach this crag is after climbing the Fifth Flatiron. From the base of the rap off the Fifth, the base of the east face of Schmoe's Nose is only about a hundred yards north and a bit lower, although this is a steep, vegetated 100 yards. The best way to go down, or if you want to avoid the Fifth on the way up, is to use the crude trail south of the Fifth Flatiron.
To descend from the summit, downclimb a steep crack on the west for 20' (5.2) to a large ledge. This crack can be down-led if you don't want to free solo this. A block here has been slung with a cable; do a short rap from this NW to the ground. You can scramble down the gully north of Schmoe's Nose.
Also known as "East Face Right", this is probably the easiest route on Schmoe's Nose. This route ascends the narrow east face, and then climbs a dihedral right (north) of the "nose", climbing a short overhang to the bridge of the nose and then on up the upper east face to the top.The bottom of the east face is not well defined and contains many trees. You can start from the bottom or bushwhack up north of the face and get on the rock higher up. From the highest trees on the face, climb a crac...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 23, 2004 Gear Alert
There is presently a 2-cord anchor on top. I was on top if this rock when a rain/sleet blew in and my partner was not "into" a scramble down. THe 2 cordalettes and locking biner are reasonably solid for a gentle rap down. If they are moved or redirected, I would think it possible if the stars were crossed wrong for you that the boulder would follow you quickly to the bottom. Please consider this carefully if you decide to move the anchor.
For reference, It doesn't bug me if someone removes the anchor completely either... it was left as a sacrifice to the weather gods. If you do so however, please consider using the materials to replace or back up poor anchors elsewhere in the future.
As of yesterday, it looks like folks are still using the anchor on the summit. There was one set of slings down in the notch but looked like everyone uses the top. The boulder does indeed look like it could come with you and sounds a bit hollow when knocked, but it didn't budge or move at all.