Schmeming 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell, and Scott Beguin FFA: Josh Smith |
| Submitted By: | Wa3lt on Nov 26, 2006 |
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Schmeming is #4
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Description This route was first freed using traditional gear placements for the first 25 feet. Later, the FA party allowed bolts to be added to this otherwise R-rated section. The route is sustained, tricky, and thin throughout - bring your crimping fingers and be ready to keep your eyes on your feet!
Location Located to the left of Early Arete.
Protection 8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 16, 2007
| Pretty heinous hand-jamming at the start, and some hard-core stemming throughout. This things kinda schizophrenic--not sure if its a splitter crack, a dihedral, an arete, or a thin face. |
By Scott Beguin
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.12a
| First Ascent Party was Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell, and Scott Beguin, before it was retrobolted by team Bradshaw by approval of the first ascensionists. I believe Josh Smith bagged the first free ascent after bolts were added. |
By Josh Smith
Jun 23, 2008
| Not that it matters, but I did it before the bolts went in. Spicy. Good route, and better now that it's better protected. |
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