A bit of a walk away (15 minutes) but lots of high quality climbing available to those who don't mind the walk. There are 5 crags here all next to one another. The crags are in the forest, making this place a wonderful summer destination. The routes range from 5.3 to 5.14a, so you have plenty of opportunities for everyone in the group. Also, these crags are easily reached (just a short drive) from the campground in Morschreuth.
From Moggast, drive towards Leutzdorf and take the left towards Burggaillenreuth. Continue towards Burggaillenreuth and park in the parking lot near the soccer field before actually entering Burggaillenreuth. Cross the road and head up a path towards the forest. When you reach a dirt road, head left and take the 2nd path into the woods on your right. After 250m you'll reach some stone stairs. At this point, you can decide where you want to go. Go down and to your left to reach Schlosszwergwand, Schlosserei, or Schlossberzwilling. Or go up the stairs to reach the Obere Schlossbergwände. The GPS coordinates indicate the parking lot.
Fantastic route culminating into a stretched out crux move followed by a decent rest with easier climbing above. Nevertheless, fighting the building pump can be the difference between sending and failure. The difficulty of the route is pretty consistent 5.11-, except for the crux move....[more]Browse More Classics in International