Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | 1968 Jim McCarthy & Burt Angrist |
Page Views: | 2,064 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Michal Pasniewski on May 20, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, RJ B |
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Access Issue: 2020 Falcon Closures
Details
Cliff access is closed south of Westward Ha! for nesting raptors. See mohonkpreserve.org/what-we-… for updates.
Description
P1: 100ft. Climb over humid moss to the small roof with the fixed tricam. Traverse easily rightwards under the roof (leave long slings to reduce drag). Go up aiming for the arching right-facing corner. climb up the corner. Move up the off-hands crack in the corner (great pro) then make cruxy moves left (#000) and up the beautiful face. Figure out how to get to the blocky roof, then pull the roof and enter the corner. Continue to the top, setup a directional cam, then hand traverse left to a belay tree.
P2: (~70ft) Move 40ft left (west) on the ledge, to the 2nd tree.
P3: Climb a dirty, tricky 5.7 ramp to the clean left--facing corner, which becomes quite vegetated at the top.
P2: (~70ft) Move 40ft left (west) on the ledge, to the 2nd tree.
P3: Climb a dirty, tricky 5.7 ramp to the clean left--facing corner, which becomes quite vegetated at the top.
Location
Locate the Square Meal corner (near "Ecologically Sensitive Area" signs). Walk E along the cliff, over the huge roof, to a lowest tree which has another tree below. This allows a rappel with double 60m ropes. Traverse W along the "death" ledge to a tree located just under the cleft/chimney in the huge roof far above.
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