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Millbrook
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Schlemiel 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1968 Jim McCarthy & Burt Angrist
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Michal Pasniewski on May 20, 2014

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Partially closed.

Description 

P1: 100ft. Climb over humid moss to the small roof with the fixed tricam. Traverse easily rightwards under the roof (leave long slings to reduce drag). Go up aiming for the arching right-facing corner. climb up the corner. Move up the off-hands crack in the corner (great pro) then make cruxy moves left (#000) and up the beautiful face. Figure out how to get to the blocky roof, then pull the roof and enter the corner. Continue to the top, setup a directional cam, then hand traverse left to a belay tree.

P2: (~70ft) Move 40ft left (west) on the ledge, to the 2nd tree.

P3: Climb a dirty, tricky 5.7 ramp to the clean left--facing corner, which becomes quite vegetated at the top.

Location 

Locate the Square Meal corner (near "Ecologically Sensitive Area" signs). Walk E along the cliff, over the huge roof, to a lowest tree which has another tree below. This allows a rappel with double 60m ropes. Traverse W along the "death" ledge to a tree located just under the cleft/chimney in the huge roof far above.

Protection 

Fixed ancient tricam in the first small roof on P1. Double rack to BD #2. Double (maybe even triple) BD #.75 useful. Black C3 #000 useful to protect the crux. Blue/red/brown tricams useful in holes.


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