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 ADVANCED
Qual Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Red Recollection S 
Block Party TR 
Crack left of Leftwing T,TR 
Eaten Alive T 
Espionage S 
Fahrenheit 23 S 
Great White Top Rope TR 
Jay Butt Dialed Me Today TR 
Leftwing S 
Long Time Coming 
More Choss Than Moss TR 
Nordwand, The S 
Now or Never S 
Nut Job T 
Pocket Warmup S 
Purple Jeep TR 
Quail Stew T,S 
Schizophrenia S 
Secret Agent Man S 
Top Rope Hero TR 
Unknown / "Meaner than Green" S 
Unlisted Number S 
Warm Up 1 S 
Warm Up 2 S 
Unsorted Routes:

Schizophrenia 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,863
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Luke Kiefer

Description 

Schizophrenia climbs the left hand version of the two routes on the first tall golden wall. They share the first 4 bolts. Crux at about 2/3 height leads to some amazing jugs up high.


Location 

First wall you come to when walking up the trail from the horse trail.


Protection 

10 or 11 bolts with chain anchors. Bring draws for the top if you plan to lower or TR.



Photos of Schizophrenia Slideshow Add Photo
"Schizophrenia" and "Unknown"
BETA PHOTO: "Schizophrenia" and "Unknown"
Luke Kiefer
Luke Kiefer
John Schmacher mid route.
John Schmacher mid route.
Comments on Schizophrenia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2014
By Tradoholic
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Huston calls this "Mean and Green" in his topo found here: documents.scribd.com/docs/1i25x7felmh3df16lh5a.pdf

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

They share the first 4 bolts, then diverge. Although I probably screwed up the beta and made it harder than it needed to be, I thought it was harder or at least as hard as Unknown 12a/b (the right hand line). Super fun though, if you can get past the first 3 bolts and the choss that that section entails.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 18, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

In response to a deleted comment/question:

Yesterday was the first time I was on it. I went left of the line of bolts at the crux bulge, it was a series of hard crimps and gastons that way. Maybe we missed a jug to the right of the bolts. Felt hard.

By Tradoholic
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Good route, it seems to me now that the route crux at the bulge is right of the bolts and the crux bolt is easily clipped off a jug.

It looked like left of the bolts there were decent holds but no more and to climb them would be a 12+ effort.

By Tradoholic
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I climbed left of the bolts at the bulge today, a touch harder than right of the bolts, probably 5.12a.

By Tradoholic
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Chris, all routes now have leaver biners except SAM and those anchors to the left of SAM for Top Rope Hero. You are all welcome.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Thanks Nick. Rapping into SAM is easy from a nice large rock protrusion on top, next time I am out there I can add them on SAM if you haven't first.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 5, 2011

few bolts on this rig are protruding from the wall. could be replaced and/or reinforced with glue.

super fun crux, btw. some holds have broken there, as well. makes for some exciting moves.

By Dylan B.
4 days ago

This route is really ready for a rebolting effort. The bottom four bolts are all very questionable. The first is a rusty old thing that's jammed in an upside down position. The second and fourth are both spinners. The third is positioned so the biner on your draw is leveraged over an edge. There's another spinner up much higher.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
4 days ago

That rock is so soft, better do it right with glue-ins.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
2 days ago

Maybe we should bring drilled angles to the midwest ;-)