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Redgarden - Below Lower Ramp
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Toys for Tots 
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Velvet Hammer 
Vertical Smile 
Waking Sleep 
Wave Rave aka Smoking Gun 
Zombies on the Lookout 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 14, 2001
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Trevor Nydam moving through the crux of Schizphren...
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  • Description 

    Schizophrenia is on the lowest [tier] of the W/SW face of Redgarden Wall, and thus it gets morning shade and afternoon sun. The route begins from the trail and ends on the ledge from which The Yellow Spur and Vertigo begin, more or less at the base of Neurosis or Psychosis. Schizophrenia makes a great 5.8 approach pitch to any of the routes starting on the ledge above, if you want to shorten your approach and lengthen your climb.

    Go up the Redgarden Wall trail from the Streamside trail until a metal ladder takes you up just beside the large boulder against the wall. The dihedral just above the ladder on the wall, behind the boulder, is Schizophrenia.

    To climb Schizophrenia, get between the huge boulder and the wall, just up from the metal ladder and left of an obvious dihedral. Start on the face, traversing right and upward into the dihedral through a slight roof. Go up the dihedral protecting on stoppers and cams or tricams to the obvious ledge. Walk back a short distance to a huge tree to belay.

    To get back the the base, you can walk to the climber's left (N/NE) along the ledge until it merges with the trail below Rewritten, but now that you are at the base of such grand climbs, why would you do that?


    The protection is mostly good, with stoppers and cams or tricams. A light rack will do just fine.

    Comments on Schizophrenia Add Comment
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    By Holly Barnard
    Jul 25, 2004
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    Although this climb is almost too short to be called a route, it has some fun moves on it - esp. going over the small roof and a cruxy move or two in the dihedral. I'd recommend doing it if you are waiting around to get on the super popular routes up trail from it (e.g. rewritten, yellow spur ,etc.). Nice little warm up for the day.

    By DanMoore
    Jul 6, 2005

    Decent climb and fun while it lasts. The start is a bit bouldery for my liking and the interesting part is way too short. In fact, the whole climb is way too short. Definitely a one star.

    By Trevor Nydam
    Sep 12, 2005
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

    Nice warmup to above pitches. Head over to [Mickey Mouse Nailup] and then to [Alice in Bucketland] for a great day. T Nydam

    By Jordon Griffler
    From: boulder
    Oct 29, 2007

    The start is easier by turning around and walking up the ladder a couple of rungs. But don't tell your sponsors....

    By Canon
    Aug 21, 2011

    Crappy rock quality. Throw this climb in the dumpster.