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This spire faces SW, so it gets sun most of the day. There is a schist band running horizontally about 20 feet up, as well as a schist cap on top. Rock quality is good, with a variety of climbing on schist, quartz knobs and crystals, and granite flakes.
The shortest approach in Rushmore! This spire lies directly between the Inner Marker and Hwy 244. The base of this spire is 100' south of the Monster parking area, and less than a minute from the road!
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Schist Head
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Schist Head:
Schist for Brains 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 110'
Schister 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 60'
Schist Happens 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 100'
Featured Route For Schist Head
Schister 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Schist Head
Fun face and crack climbing on a route that is actually a variation to the start of either Schist Happens or Schist For Brains. Climb and protect the thin crack (just right of the Schist for Brains flake) to the obvious bulge. Clip the bolt and power through to a second bolt and a good stance. Now face climb to the top of the obvious crack, protecting it as you go. At the top of the crack, move left to finish on Schist For Brains, or to the right to finish on Schist Happens....[more] Browse More Classics in SD