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Schist Head
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Schist for Brains S 
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Schist for Brains 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Rone, Jim Slichter August, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 468
Submitted By: Dave Rone on Aug 14, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Line of route, with block to be avoided indicated ...

Check NPS for Closures

Description 

Climb the big flake up to and through the schist (the intent of the route is to not stem to the left). Work right onto the nose of the ridge, then follow the bolts to the top. After the 9th bolt, you will come to a block perched on the top of the ridge. It is quite stable but avoid using it. You can easily get by it without using it. Climb up to the left, and over the notch to the anchors.

Location 

Starts up the big flake on the left side.

Protection 

11 bolts. Rappel anchor on top. Single 60m rope gets you down, barely. Check your ends!


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By Kirtis
From: Rapid City, SD
Mar 23, 2015

Climbed this route again today this route is a blast. Seriously this route has some of the coolest 5.9 climbing in the area. Also the route is south facing so it gets some sun a rarity for cold climbing in the maker / monster area.
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