Schist Another Sport Climb 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Jim Shimberg |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | matthewWallace on Nov 13, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Erin at the crux of the route. It's blank and th...
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Description This route is fun with good holds everywhere except at the crux. Start on the easy slab under the first bolt work your way up clipping off of a good undercling. Trend right up easy ground past another bolt, then clip the third bolt, just above a ledge, this is where the crux begins. Move left on underclings these moves can feel extremely compressed, there is a small foot on the face that is usable. Continue moving left on the ledge in funky compressed moves until it is possible to stand up and clip the next bolt, continue over the bulge with one or two more thought provoking moves. Then continue up the easy often wet top to the chains.
The new guide book has this listed at 5.7 but Jim told me it was 5.9 before the book came out so I have adjusted it to meet in the middle.
Location On the New Wave wall, on the smaller section to the right, this is the right most bolted route, just left of the dirty gully that makes the trad route of Schist Another Crack.
To access this part of the cliff when you get to New Wave proper and the trail splits, left goes to New Wave go right as if heading to the Kennel Wall there will be three bolted routes here on the left of the trail, this route is the right most route.
Protection 4 bolts to LO's.
PLEASE TOP ROPE OFF YOUR OWN GEAR.
| Comments on Schist Another Sport Climb |
|
By Alyson Sewell
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.9
| This climb is a lot of fun, but it's pretty short.
Also, I feel the ratings are different depending on how you do this climb. 2 out of 3 of us did it with this weird but really fun scrunched under-cling traverse (definitely a ton harder!) at the crux. When Matt did it, he just stood on small feet and reached for something. I'm not sure how easy this would be for someone my height. Nonetheless it is a great climb either way, definitely recommended! |
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Aug 31, 2011
| So that is what this is called haha.. was my first lead ever in 03. |
By Ming
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Can we say not even close to a 5.7? I don't think it's a 5.7 even if you are 6+ feet tall. I put my wife up on it because it's suppose to be a "5.7" and I watch her struggle on the crux move while she had little trouble on the 5.9 next to it. She is 5 ft 2 in. I got on it and being 5ft 2in w/-3 ape index and I had to use my power to pull onto the non-bucket ledge. I saw the easier holds to my left that would've dropped the move dow to 5.9 ish but I did a 10ish thuggish move that is upper body strength dependent. Btw she did get the onsight on that one and I was so proud of her and I consider it to be the hardest send she has done yet. |
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Feb 4, 2013
| Yeah, we got on this expecting a quick cool down on the way back down to the parking lot from the Kennell wall. We definitely weren't expecting the thought provoking awkward crux! Still a fun climb, would be interested to get on it again knowing what to expect. |
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