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Sugarloaf, East Face
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Beast of Burden 
Bird Man 
Blue Velvet 
Captain Fingers 
Crushed Velvet 
Dominion 
East Chimney 
Fang-Left Side, The 
Farley 
Fracture, The 
Gallows Pole (direct) 
Grand Illusion 
Harding's Chimney 
Lady Luck 
Lurch 
Mini-Illusion, The 
Monkey Flower 
Morticia 
Opus 7 
Scheister 
South Summit Bolt Ladder 
Stone 
Swallow Tail 
Taurus 
Telesis 

Scheister 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown, 1950's
Page Views: 4,179
Submitted By: caughtinside on Jan 22, 2007
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Higher up on Scheister.

Description 

Scheister starts just up the ramp just left of Crushed Velvet (bolted face) and the Farley lieback. It is just uphill from Harding's chimney. Start up the ramp, and then work into the chimney. It is pretty easy at first, stem as long as possible. It narrows down, and then you must pull out of it onto the face (crux.)

You can belay at the shelf, or continue up a little farther and belay at the bolted stance which is the p2 anchor of Crushed Velvet. Continue up the big corner, move left under the roof, and then hike up and back right and up another corner to the summit notch. belay here, then tunnel out the back.


Location 

see description


Protection 

standard rack. A #4 camalot or equivalent is needed to protect the crux.



Photos of Scheister Slideshow Add Photo
Katherine gets her lieback/smear/jam on during the excellent second pitch. <br /> <br />
Katherine gets her lieback/smear/jam on during the...
The crux of Scheister.  Exiting the squeeze.
The crux of Scheister. Exiting the squeeze.
Starting up Scheister.
Starting up Scheister.
Katherine at the top of pitch one.  That squeeze-a-ma-jig stuff was fuuuun, right?! <br /> <br />April 2010
Katherine at the top of pitch one. That squeeze-a...
Looking at the the third and final pitch of scheister from the south summit of Sugarloaf. This pitch is the finish to a number of climbs
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the the third and final pitch of scheis...
Comments on Scheister Add Comment
Show which comments
By phatline
From: Burlingame, CA
Mar 16, 2007

Wish I extended my #4 before the crux, because the chimney narrows so much that I had to leave the crack--ended up inverting the cam from the outward tugs.

Also I recommend doing the tunnel-through finish as indicated here, or if you go right (as I did), be mindful of rope drag

By Chris DeWitt
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Encountered all the same problems phatline did. We didn't have a #4 cam for the crux which made it a bit more scary.

There was one rather loose largish rock on the second pitch that I could see possibly falling in the future.

Otherwise a great route.

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 8, 2010

The loose block that Chris may be commenting on I believe is on a right facing wider crack to the left of the usual left facing dihedral second pitch.

The 3rd pitch seems to have a few variations. The usual way you climb up a fun groove, go through a hole and then up a short but strenuous flaring chimney. An alternate variation is to turn right before the hole. It climbs a slab past a bolt and then continues up past another bolt or two to the summit. I believe the first variation to be easier and more classic. Watch for rope drag on both variations.

By Ryan Kosh
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 11, 2010

The first variation listed above seems to be unprotected, but easier (there is a chopped bolt at your face before entering the summit chimney, but I didn't see any other pro)

The second variation is well-protected with two bolts (look further right if you see a bad machine bolt)

Rope drag is bad on both.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 11, 2012

I think I did the second variation? This pitch only has one bolt that I saw, however.

Third pitch: Sling everything long and don't place too much protection. Extend your anchor from the summit bolts in order to belay at the top of the final chimney exit, and - Voila! - minimal rope drag.

Consider a rope tug system worked out for communication on the third pitch if there's much wind up there.

By Josh Cameron
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

A great finish is to climb the 2nd half of the 3rd pitch of Blue Velvet. On Scheister's 3rd pitch, when you're standing on the ledge after the slab, but before the easy gully, look up and slightly left and you'll see a bolt. Follow the line up the steep face. You'll finish on a ledge a short traverse left of the tunnel through.

By Kyle Napierkowski
Nov 27, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Beautiful weather at Sugarloaf this weekend. Climbed Scheister for the first time and would highly recommend it, as a beginner multipitch leader I had a blast. I'll toprope 10a outdoors and 11a/b in the gym, and this 5.7+ was very manageable for me, with no "oh shit" moments.

We took the tunnel finish, very satisfying topping out through it! I was happy to have extended the BD #4 and 3.5 I placed in the first pitch chimney, as mentioned above.

Full trip report and some more pics climbstuff.com/climbing/trip-report/climbing-sugarloaf-tahoe>>>