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Routes in Evan's Overlook
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Broke Dick T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Scheherazade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Tony Bubb, Joseffa Meir, Evan Deis, Kateri Ahrendt, 10/2015 |
| Page Views: | 930 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 9, 2015 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
A pretty good climb that would be better if longer. Some calcite lines the Windgate crack on the right side at first, and the left side is well varnished. While first inspection make this look like there may be a wide crux, a crack within the crack at teh start, and some nice holds up high keep this from being an off-width style climb, or very hard at all for that matter. The 5.9 grade was independently conceived by each of the the 4 people who did the route.
Location
To the right of the free-standing tower on the overlook, and to the right (Northeast) of the parking below. Find a crumbly white rock at the base of a slightly left-leaning wide hands to fist crack in a shallow black corner.
Go up onto the white rock from the right side, then change shoes and rope up. A mossy/choossy chimney/slot to the left about 10' has a nice sized juniper above to facilitate a belay or rap if so desired. There is a good directional (3.5" cam) at the top of the crack that makes this no problem for the second.
Go up onto the white rock from the right side, then change shoes and rope up. A mossy/choossy chimney/slot to the left about 10' has a nice sized juniper above to facilitate a belay or rap if so desired. There is a good directional (3.5" cam) at the top of the crack that makes this no problem for the second.
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