Schaumschläger  5.10b

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Type:  Sport, 120 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  M. Grulich 1986 Submitted By:  MPuser10840 on Sep 12, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Barney climbing Schaumschläger.

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Description 

This is a super classic line, and the good climbing just keeps going for a rope-stretching 120 ft (37m)! A 70m rope will just get you back to the ground. This is one of the best 7-s in the Frankenjura.
Since this is a pretty well-traveled route, just follow the chalked holds straight up until you get up a ways, then trend right a bit towards the roof (follow the bolts). The climbing is pretty consistent 5.9 until right before the roof, where negotiating a small overhang is about 5.10b and from there it stays 5.10b until the top-out. However, I must have cruised through the crux without noticing it because this route is rated as harder than its neighbor, but they both head through the roof together and share the same anchor.
One word of advice: if you're onsighting it and you get to the very last slings without blowing the onsight, only clip the double slings at the end if you've got heaps of energy left. The slight rope drag and weight of 35m of rope makes clipping these slings the crux since you're also still in the overhang. Just climb up a little bit and risk the slightly longer fall because the top is just above these slings.
The name of the route translates to "Swashbuckler".

Location 

Just right of Dolomitweg.

Protection 

I lost count but I also skipped a lot of bolts because I knew I didn't have enough. I think it's 11 bolts + 2 slings + pigtail anchor.