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Schauenburgflue

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angensteiner Verschneidung 5c S 
Breakfast of Champions 7a S 
Dritter Frühling 6b S 
Gummiadler 6b+ S 
Nano 6a+ S 
Via Rothschild 6a+ S 

Schauenburgflue  


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Location: 47.4982, 7.6772 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 698
Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Apr 6, 2012
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Description 

Tall (35+ m) and wide cliff with pretty good limestone climbing. For the Jura, a rare combination of long routes and good rock. Ratings here are no gimmies, but not as tough as nearby Falkenflue.

Nearly all routes do-able with 60m or even 50m ropes, but you'll have more fun with a 70. Everything bolted and no need for any gear.

The setting is in a beautiful valley with beech and oak trees, with hiking trails all around. There are nicely arranged campsites almost at the base of the cliff, making this an ideal place to camp out.

Nearly 100 routes, documented in Plaisir Jura, and also in a now out-of-print labor of love, the Fluebible.

Getting There 

Drive from Basel to the town of Liestal. Take Schauenburgerstrasse, following signs to Hotel Bad Schauenburg.

Parking at several small lots on the road above the hotel. There are trails going uphill towards the rock, hard to miss it. About 20 min walk from the cars. Nearly 1 hr walk from Liestal train station (but you may get lucky with a ride from a fellow climber).

Climbing Season

For the Switzerland area.

Weather station 5.9 miles from here

6 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Schauenburgflue
Günther goes for Gummiadler 6b+

Gummiadler 6b+ 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  Europe : Switzerland : Schauenburgflue
6b+"Rubber eagle" ??Fun climbing with a big finish.Head up the face, weaving right and left a bit. After ~ 5 bolts, a separate line heads up to the left (7a). Stay right and head towards an alcove under the roof. Look out for two moves of crack climbing (out of nowhere). A bit dynamic over the lip! ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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