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Schauenburgflue

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Angensteiner Verschneidung 5c S 
Breakfast of Champions 7a S 
Dritter Frühling 6b S 
Gummiadler 6b+ S 
Nano 6a+ S 
Via Rothschild 6a+ S 

Schauenburgflue 


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Location: 47.4982, 7.6772 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Apr 6, 2012
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Cliff view from the drive up

Description 

Tall (35+ m) and wide cliff with pretty good limestone climbing. For the Jura, a rare combination of long routes and good rock. Ratings here are no gimmies, but not as tough as nearby Falkenflue.

Nearly all routes do-able with 60m or even 50m ropes, but you'll have more fun with a 70. Everything bolted and no need for any gear.

The setting is in a beautiful valley with beech and oak trees, with hiking trails all around. There are nicely arranged campsites almost at the base of the cliff, making this an ideal place to camp out.

Nearly 100 routes, documented in Plaisir Jura, and also in a now out-of-print labor of love, the Fluebible.


Getting There 

Drive from Basel to the town of Liestal. Take Schauenburgerstrasse, following signs to Hotel Bad Schauenburg.

Parking at several small lots on the road above the hotel. There are trails going uphill towards the rock, hard to miss it. About 20 min walk from the cars. Nearly 1 hr walk from Liestal train station (but you may get lucky with a ride from a fellow climber).


6 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Schauenburgflue
Near the start of Breakfast of Champions 7a

Breakfast of Champions 7a 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  Europe : Switzerland : Schauenburgflue
7aMultiple cruxy bits -- including off the deck, if you take the straightest line! After ~6 bolts, stay to the right and get a good rest standing up on the pillar (left goes a 7b towards the roof of Gummiadler).Crux is about knowing which of the pockets to actually use. Old-school bolting, even at the crux, so sack up. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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