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Whiskey Peak - East
Routes Sorted
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Ballantine Blast T 
Crown Royal T 
Gentle Ben's Afternoon Delight T 
Lazy Buttress T 
Microbrew T 
Schaeffer's Delight T 
Shaken, Not Stirred T 

Schaeffer's Delight 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: George Urioste, Mike Petrilak, Mike Ward
Page Views: 3,650
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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BETA PHOTO: The line of Schaeffer's Delight.

Description 

Immediately above the spot where the Frogland approach trail reaches the base of the cliff is a clean varnished face. The right side of this face has an obvious S-shaped crack. Schaeffer's Delight starts just to the left of the S-shaped crack and follows magnificent 5.7 face-climbing past several bolts and a few small cam placements to a good belay ledge with a bush on it. You can rappel from this ledge with two ropes, as the first ascent party did in 1984. George Urioste returned a few years ago and extended the route.The second pitch face climbs straight above the bush (5.7) to easier ground 15 feet up. Continue up and right to a smooth low-angle dihedral and belay near its top. The third pitch goes up, then left and climbs a prominent, square corner (5.8) to the top.At this point, you are on a huge platform on the east ridge of Whiskey Peak. There is another possible pitch above, but loose rock adds a certain element of danger. The best way off is to scramble into the brushy gully just to the left and climb it for about 50 yards to join the normal Whiskey Peak descent gully.

Protection 

Six or seven bolts on the first pitch; trad gear above.


Photos of Schaeffer's Delight Slideshow Add Photo
Following the First Pitch
Following the First Pitch
The start of the route ...
The start of the route ...
Nice face climbing on the first pitch of Schaeffer...
Nice face climbing on the first pitch of Schaeffer...
start to schaeffer's delight.  note first bolt abo...
BETA PHOTO: start to schaeffer's delight. note first bolt abo...
The start of the second pitch, back when there was...
The start of the second pitch, back when there was...
The face above the large ledges at the top of Shae...
The face above the large ledges at the top of Shae...
Looking down the square-cut corner on pitch 3.
Looking down the square-cut corner on pitch 3.
Following the 2nd pitch
Following the 2nd pitch
Maura on the second pitch of Schaeffer's Delight.
Maura on the second pitch of Schaeffer's Delight.
Paisley Close leading Pitch 3 of Schaeffer's Delig...
Paisley Close leading Pitch 3 of Schaeffer's Delig...

Comments on Schaeffer's Delight Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
May 3, 2004

Climbed the first pitch the day before yesterday! It is indeed a nice pitch. Definitely take small gear even on the first pitch to ease the mind. Some of those edges can seem just a little too sharp.
By 10b4me
Sep 21, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I just climbed Schaefers Delight and it is a good clean route. I was a little shocked when I got to the last bolt and still had 40' feet to climb to the anchors. Even though it starts to lean in, I would recomend taking a set of chalks for a little sense of security. Bolts and Anchors look great! Brad Hammack, of Oregon
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 19, 2005

Climbed all three pitches today. At the top of pitch three, I set an anchor immediately above the inside corner. In order to descend, we bore right along an upward ramp with a lot of loose blocks. We pulled one easy fifth class move and were then on top of a giant ledge that led left to the gully. We descended the gully, which was probably a mistake, it was too overgrown and not without some steep downclimbing. We found some old rap slings but chose not to rappel. Instead, we should have gone up the gully to join the Frogland descent.

Anyway, I really enjoyed the third pitch corner; I wish it went on for a lot longer. I carried up to a #3.5 Camalot and was well protected. There were a couple locations for a #4.
By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Mar 28, 2009

Climbed this route today. Very very nice. Sun 'till noon. You can climb the 2nd and 3rd pitches on a 60m rope if you belay from the 1st large ledge above the book. We did the 2 additional pitches above, they looked inviting compared to the scrub filled gully. They were ok to poor, detracted from the classic pitches below.
By rockratrei
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Handren - guide gives incorrect info for this climb. Use the info on this site. After the square cut corner there is another 70 ft. of climbing (5.4) up a black corner and 4th class to "Lovers Ledge", where you can do the last pitch of Lazy Buttress or scramble into the gully and go up to the Frogland descent.
By Anfarwal
From: Denver, CO
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this a few weeks ago. Handren guide is wrong--follow the text NOT his picture. I wound up cutting into P2 of Ballantine Blast, and then climbing up (or rather, bushwhacking) up to lover's ledge. Once on the ledge, exit climber's left down and across the first brushy gully. Scramble back up the other side up about 150 feet to join up with Frogland descent in the second gully (don't try to hike down into the first brushy gully, the trail goes nowhere).
By matt matera
Dec 17, 2013

Did this route on 12-16-13. In shade all day. The first pitch is fun and well protected (bolts and gear). The second pitch is poorly described in the Handren red rock guide book. My opinion: at the first pitch anchor you will see a bolt about 12 feet above you. Climb to the on the face slightly to the left of the anchor up to the bolt. Then diagonal left to the corner (limited gear but easy moves). Then Up over the lip is a shallow, low angled corner that veers right. Climb that corner to the top for a belay. I only made it to the top of this pitch. On the way up the corner is a ledge with a rap anchor (slung block that looks attached but is sketchy). Don't know if this was where P2 ended or if I should have gone higher up. Anyway, from this slung block a 60m rap gets you to the ground (be mindful of rope eating cracks). From this ledge you can also see the brown 5.8 corner above (P3).