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Scenic Turnout
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Scenic Turnout 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 526
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 12, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: 28 Scenic Turnout 5.10a

Description 

Steep, quartzite slab climbing followed by jugs to the top. Thin, crimpy climbing through the first two bolts to a clipping hold for the third bolt, followed by mostly large holds above. A mantle onto a narrow ledge awaits after the fifth bolt.

Location 

The west-most (right-most) of the routes in the Ed and Terry Gully. It is the one of two bolted routes and is the only route located on a west-facing slab. After traversing from the main Ed and Terry Wall through a small gap, head downhill for 20 feet and then scramble south and up to the belay area.

Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchor. If top roping after leading consider extending the anchor point about three or four feet to avoid rubbing on an edge below the anchor.


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By Kent McClannan
Apr 2, 2013

After many years, I re-visited this quality and compact climbing area. Scenic Turnout was originally climbed in 1990 by Chad Leblanc and I. I hand drilled the first two bolts on lead (crux), and the rest of the pitch was protected with gear (tcuís, stoppers). We called it Sticky Fingers 5.10-. Although obscure due to itís location, itís a good pitch. Since repeating some of Jimís Little Cottonwood Canyon routes in my youth I have had deep respect for him. I think itís cool that we have a 1st ascent together even though our efforts were almost two decades apart.