SDS on an obvious sloping "shelf" on the left side of the boulder and trend up and right along the bulging arete. Hit the lip and top out on the south face using good edges and chickenheads. This problem is a bit contrived as the line of least resistance wants to pull you left onto easy ground, but it is really pretty good if you stick to the arete and commit to the topout. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Yes, I love this boulder. There are two more climbs on it. On the far Left is a V-2, go straight up the left overhanging arete. Secondly, there is a 5.12 traverse going right to left, the top is out. The V-4 on this rock is one of my favorites.
Anybody have a name/rating for the right to left traverse beginning right of the hueco, moving through south line, and finishing on juggy holds on the far left arete? Good holds, bad feet, very technical. Seems harder than 5.12. I'd peg it at V6+ but who knows? Also, there is a hard sit-start on the left side beginning on an undercling then a big move up to a high right gaston or pissy left crimp.
Jordan, according to the older guide book by Bob Horan, it's called "Scenic Traverse" and goes at B1+/B2, which I think translates to somewhere between V5 and V7. On his diagram of the rock, it looks like he has the traverse starting at about the mid-level pocket. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info Brett. Not that it really affects the grade, but we were beginning this on the jug right of the pocket, just to add another logical move and maybe a little extra pump. Also try starting far left side and traversing right and finish on standard; same crux but slightly easier for some reason.