Scene of the Crime
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 2.8 from 10 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | JB Tribout |
Page Views: | 2,849 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Despite its quality, this route sits somewhat neglected near the top of the Aggro Gully, due to a difficult mono move. Locals claim the crux one-finger crank is harder than any move on White Wedding, and still others say that if you have fat fingers, you won't be able to fit your middle finger in the pocket at all.
However, if you have the finger strength, this will be a quick tick. The climb starts with a tough boulder problem, then a sequential rightwards traverse to a good rest before climbing up to the crux. Grab a decent crimp with your right, then stuff your left middle finger (or ring) in the pocket, rock up on your right foot, and stab (with your right hand) for a good 3-finger pocket. More sequential pockets and crimps lead to a final pumping section and the chains.
However, if you have the finger strength, this will be a quick tick. The climb starts with a tough boulder problem, then a sequential rightwards traverse to a good rest before climbing up to the crux. Grab a decent crimp with your right, then stuff your left middle finger (or ring) in the pocket, rock up on your right foot, and stab (with your right hand) for a good 3-finger pocket. More sequential pockets and crimps lead to a final pumping section and the chains.
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