Scene of the Climb  5.11a PG13

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Type:  Trad, 12 pitches, 80160 feet Consensus:  5.11a [details] FA:  Kevin Bein and Ron Sacks (1976) Submitted By:  Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Area closures MORE INFO >>> 2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P1 is actually very nice, but it is often wet and the crux gear (an old fixed pin) may be questionable. Use a screamer. I have not climbed P2, so the description is not mine.

P1 - Climb up to the overhang and traverse left to a seam. Climb the seam and the bulge above (crux) to easier rock and a stance. Escape left to Overhanging Layback, or move up and left to an overhang (5.8 R) then up past the overhang to a belay at a block (you can again escape left by traversing past a jammed block before the overhang).

P2 - Up the easy face to a white face and small right-facing corner capped by an overhang and fixed pins. Move up left to another fixed pin (Lost Arrow), then up and left again to a right-facing corner (5.10a, crux) and a stance. Follow the corner to a ceiling, exit left, and chimney up a past bird droppings to the GT ledge.

Location 

Below a small overhang just right of the obvious Overhanging Layback flake and right-facing corner.

Protection 

Standard Gunks rack + a screamer for the P1 crux pin.