Scene of the Climb
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P1 is actually very nice, but it is often wet and the crux gear (an old fixed pin) may be questionable. Use a screamer. I have not climbed P2, so the description is not mine.
P1 - Climb up to the overhang and traverse left to a seam. Climb the seam and the bulge above (crux) to easier rock and a stance. Escape left to Overhanging Layback
, or move up and left to an overhang (5.8 R) then up past the overhang to a belay at a block (you can again escape left by traversing past a jammed block before the overhang).
P2 - Up the easy face to a white face and small right-facing corner capped by an overhang and fixed pins. Move up left to another fixed pin (Lost Arrow), then up and left again to a right-facing corner (5.10a, crux) and a stance. Follow the corner to a ceiling, exit left, and chimney up a past bird droppings to the GT ledge.
Below a small overhang just right of the obvious Overhanging Layback
flake and right-facing corner.
Standard Gunks rack + a screamer for the P1 crux pin.
Aug 30, 2010
As of 2010, this route is almost completely hidden and covered by the growth of a maple tree at the base.
By Sprax Lines
From: Brookline, MA
May 19, 2015
A little "gardening" on lead and it goes, despite water seeping out of the small pod for a hand and/or foot about 18 feet up. (Consider bringing a towel.) Hard to protect without clogging up a decent hold or two.