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Scary Monsters 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt, 1980
Page Views: 986
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: "Scary Monsters" follows the beautiful c...

Description 

This local classic is the left-facing corner in the center of the wall, and although short it will test your flexibility as well as gear placing skills should you decide lead it. Three stars out of five.

Getting established on the route requires a difficult move but there does exist a crux section midway, although hanging on long enough to get gear is the real crux. Seldom led due to the time-consuming placements but easily set up as a toprope.

This route has slightly more difficult moves than 29 Palms (5.11d), but it lacks that route's continuty and length. The Condor (5.12a), Warrior Eagle (5.12b) and The Thrill of Desire (5.12c) are some slightly harder stemming corners in the Park.

Protection 

gear to 2", especially many thin wires


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By RTM
Feb 13, 2003
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Sweet little route. Discombobulating stems and THIN pro. Prolly not 3 stars tho.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I led this route on a recent trip to J-Tree and I found the climbing to be superb, if a bit short. As for laybacking, I had to bust a few layback moves in the middle, but to layback the whole thing seems like it would be really taxing. There are good footholds on either wall that allow stances for placing gear.

I'd be tempted to give it three stars, but since I'm not a J-Tree local, I don't want to buck tradition. We just don't get much of that kind of pure stemming here in New Hampshire, so this route was really unique for me.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 10, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Not a good route if hungover