Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Chicken Cave
Select Route:
Clean Jean S 
Jugtastic S 
Juicy Lucy S 
Scary Mary S 
Team Sweden S 
Tufa Rufa S 
Turd Burglar S 
Weekend Warriors S 

Scary Mary 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Collis, Kentucky Matt, Dan de Viant Hannah, 2008
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Ken H on Apr 3, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Anja leading Scary Mary. Chicken Cave Yangshuo Ch...


WOW! The scary in the name refers to the sudden mental whiplash of climbing out above the 80 ft exposure. The climbing at the start is in the low 10s until the last move. It is all very well protected.


Start from the anchors at the top of Clean Jean. Lead out left across the roof.


6 bolts + anchors

Photos of Scary Mary Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the end of Scary Mary at the crux.  Yangshuo Ch...
At the end of Scary Mary at the crux. Yangshuo Ch...

Comments on Scary Mary Add Comment
Show which comments
By BrianWS
Oct 11, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Super cool traverse. Link it up with the 5.10 approach pitch for the full experience. Long runners in a few spots are needed for reducing drag.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!