Looking for a new 1 strap slipper to take the place of Sportiva pythons as a shoe for the local overhung sport crag (with lots of heel and toe hooking)
sort of settled in on the pythons recently, but i'm looking for something with a tiny bit more edging power and a better toe
I wear a 39.5 muira VS, 39 in the pythons.
1. Is the instinct vs the right shoe? need a really good heel and toe rubber...looking for something slightly stouter than the pythons
2. What's a good guess on size for this scarpa? 40.5? 41? i'm a 9.5 street shoe
Hah, that's kinda funny because I wear Phythons and was just interested in the Instinct VS. I'm on my 2nd pair of Pythons. Originally I only purchased them for the gym, but found they climb really well in Rifle. I wear a size 12 street/running shoe and a size 43.5 (low side of 10.5) La Sportiva Phython/Testarossa/Solution.
I just tested the Instinct VS and yes they are much better for edging, but I found they weren't that forgiving of a shoe. I had trouble flexing my foot on vertical terrain and were uncomfortable to climb in. They fit a lot closer to my street shoe sizing with about a 1/2 size smaller. I finally decided to just stick with what has worked for my climbing in the past. Which is any one of the Phython/Testarossa/Solutions. Some find the Miura VS to be a great edging shoe, but from the 4 pairs that I owned I just kept wearing out the toe rubber in about 3 months and I wasn't a fan of heel hooking in those shoes. The Testarossas and Solutions excel for heel hooking, but unless your standing on the very tip of the Solutions they aren't that great for edging. Which puts the Testarossa at a better all-around shoe for steep climbing and some vertical terrain in my opinion.
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