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Scarpa crux approach shoes any good? sizing?

Original Post
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Just wondering about Scarpa crux, currently have sportiva Boulder X in 43.5, not terribly fond of them, wondering about comparative weight, performance and sizing for the crux

justin dubois · · Estes Park · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 525

I can't speak to how they compare to the X, but I have a pair and they are amazing. They;'ve held up to multiple walls, and a trip to Patagonia, and I'm still wearing them! Im getting another pair!

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Thanks Justin, what're your crux, climbing shoe and street shoe sizes?

Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115

I wear size 13 street shoes, 47's in the cruxs. Never worn the Sportiva's to compare though

TDoyle · · Milford, MA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 140

I've had the crux since April 2012 and they held up pretty well. I love them as every day shoes and as approach shoes, but they don't edge very well. (I've heard the sportiva's edge better). I ordered a size 46 and they fit well out of the box (and i have a really wide foot).

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Thanks all,

TDoyle, size 46 for the crux, OK, but what is your street shoe and climbing shoe size? Give me some kind of frame of reference.

My own sizes are 10.5 street shoe, and generally sz 42.5 in Sportiva and scarpa climbing shoes. From Scarpa's sizing chart I suspect I should get 43.5 which is on the snugger end of 10.5. Just trying to confirm relative sizing for the crux.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

My wife wears street shoe size in hers and says any smaller wouldn't be comfy on approaches. She has the women's version... not sure if that really helps but I guess it's better than nothing.

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

I am hooked on this shoe. Hands down the best all around approach shoe I have ever seen. I wear a 10.5 street shoe and wear the same size Crux (44). I find this size better for LONG, steep approaches. If you're going to be doing shorter approaches (i.e. within a couple miles) and are using this for a lot of 5th class stuff, you may want to go with a 43.5. That said, I recently used mine (size 44) for a car-to-car solo of Mt. Conness and they hiked and climbed fantastically.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Thanks Ryan! do you have any extra room in the toe in the 44 or bumpin' the front??

TDoyle · · Milford, MA · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 140

I bought mine planning to wear them as an everyday street shoe. at the moment i am wearing a pair of Merrels (trail runners that i wear as a street shoe) that are a 46. i climb in Evolv Bandits that are a 45.

of course, if you have the option go try them on (i believe REI carries them)

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837
Ben Hicks wrote:Thanks Ryan! do you have any extra room in the toe in the 44 or bumpin' the front??
I chose the 44 so that I'd have a bit of room for those steep downhills. With the 43.5, the tip of my big toe just barely brushed the tip of the shoe. Not uncomfortable on flat ground, but something that would end up causing a blister or black toenails after a long day of downhill.
Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

I should add that I actually spent a full hour in REI switching back and forth between the 43.5 and 44...it was a close call. In the end, I'm glad I chose the 44. Your experience may differ.

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Ryan Nevius wrote:I should add that I actually spent a full hour in REI switching back and forth between the 43.5 and 44...it was a close call. In the end, I'm glad I chose the 44. Your experience may differ.
Perfect info!!! Thanks. I want them for short approaches and descents so 43.5 it is.
Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115
Ben Hicks wrote: Perfect info!!! Thanks. I want them for short approaches and descents so 43.5 it is.
Honestly, If you are looking for something for short approaches, I really prefer the Evolv Cruzers. I think they smear nicely, and soooo much lighter than the Scarpa's. My pair of Evolv's weight about the same as one shoe of the Scarpa. This is especially nice if I am just going to clip them to my harness for the climb. I HATE doing this with the cruxs, but don't even notice it when I clip the cruzers, much less weight and bulk. Of course, if I am doing a long approach or carrying a heavy pack, the Cruxs are my choice.
mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

Quick follow up, UPS dropped the 43.5 this morning. I am on the larger end of 10.5. These are close enough fit with socks without being tight. Exactly the right size for what I need!

Thanks all!

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

Glad to hear it, Ben. I hope you like them as much as I have.

Brian Croce · · san diego, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

gecko guide is like the crux but better

Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

Salewa Wildfire is like the gecko guide but better ;)

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20
Nodin deSaillan wrote:Salewa Wildfire is like the gecko guide but better ;)
How do the Wildfires climb? I mostly use my Geckos for actual climbing, and was disappointed that they discontinued the shoe. I contacted them, though, and they're going to be coming out with two approach shoes in the spring that are supposed to be more technical shoes than the Crux.
Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

The Wildfires climb really well. Precise edging and comfortable jamming with little slippage.
They remind me a bit of Gandas but with less bulk and weight.
They offer a lot of arch support and heel cushion which I didn't find as much with the gecko guide and certainly not with the crux.
They do fit quite narrowly, so that may be a deal-breaker for a lot of folks

Abram Herman · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 20

Cool, thanks for the info.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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