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Scarface 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3

   
Type:  Aid, 13 pitches, 1500', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3 [details]
FA: FA 6/2010 Bosque/Mucci
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 454
Submitted By: mucci on Jan 21, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: The start of Scarface. A2 right facing corner to ...

Description 

Scarface is a really fun route. It has some moderate nailing, but mostly clean cam cracks. The pitches in the white scar are very memorable, bullet hard and splitter. The finishing piches are wandering and lower angle, using all natural belays for the last 4 pitches.

This route is substantially more involved than the Prow or skull queen on the Column, due to having a nailing rack. Most teams should plan on 2 bivies.

Location 

This line travels through the huge white scar. It starts at a huge right facing corner system, climbing a smaller right facing corner to the left to a roof with a 2 bolt belay. The next few pitches follow cracks on the arete before traversing to the largest belay tree under the white scar.


Protection 

Standard Nailing Rack.


Photos of Scarface Slideshow Add Photo
Scarface FA topo by J.Mucci
BETA PHOTO: Scarface FA topo by J.Mucci
P8 corner
BETA PHOTO: P8 corner

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