Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Scott Franklin 3/88 |
Page Views: | 17,121 total · 81/month |
Shared By: | Taylor Roy on Nov 28, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Redpointed by Scott Franklin in 1987, Scarface was the first 5.14 established by an American. Since then it has been downrated to 5.13d. Regardless of the rating, this route is one of the most beautiful and inspiring lines in America.
This route can be broken into four distinct sections, each a little easier than the last. To start, traverse up and left through a series of large huecos. From here, clip the third bolt with some difficulty, and commit to the first and most intense section of the route, which involves huge lockoffs on one and two-finger pockets. Rest at a set of large pockets, and then move into the second part of the route- a short, insecure right-facing corner, ending with an awkward set of resting holds. After recovering, lean and funk your way up the arete to the redpoint crux, and try not to fall getting you body onto the slab. Although the fourth and final section is only 5.11+, the runouts and tiny holds provide the opportunity to blow it - or at least think about it. Absolutely classic!
This route can be broken into four distinct sections, each a little easier than the last. To start, traverse up and left through a series of large huecos. From here, clip the third bolt with some difficulty, and commit to the first and most intense section of the route, which involves huge lockoffs on one and two-finger pockets. Rest at a set of large pockets, and then move into the second part of the route- a short, insecure right-facing corner, ending with an awkward set of resting holds. After recovering, lean and funk your way up the arete to the redpoint crux, and try not to fall getting you body onto the slab. Although the fourth and final section is only 5.11+, the runouts and tiny holds provide the opportunity to blow it - or at least think about it. Absolutely classic!
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