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Scarface
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Scarface 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 19,795
Submitted By: Ben F on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (276)
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Yet another... Jacob and Seth.

Description 

To find this climb, head left when you reach the base of the wall from the approach trail. Look for the perfect finger and thin hands crack.


Protection 

Gear for me was as follows: a 1 friend, a purple camalot jr (though a 1.5 friend would have been better), 1 green camalot jr, a 2 friend, 2 red camalots, 2 2.5 friends and 2 gold camalots. If you want to sew it a bit more, bring another 2.5 friend or red camalot and/or a 1 friend. Towards the top, if you're out of hand sized, you can reach to the crack to the right and plug a 1 friend.



Photos of Scarface Slideshow Add Photo
... and another.
... and another.
one of the more photogenic climbs in the creek... scarface
one of the more photogenic climbs in the creek... ...
Jordan Campbell leading Scarface on a nice day. Oct. 06
Jordan Campbell leading Scarface on a nice day. Oc...
Scarface
Scarface
What a beauty!  I meant the crack...
What a beauty! I meant the crack...
Such a beautiful line!!! photo cred: C.Treiber
Such a beautiful line!!! photo cred: C.Treiber
the most photogenic climb at the creek.  unrivaled.
the most photogenic climb at the creek. unrivaled...
Love this climb!
Love this climb!
Splitter
Splitter
Shadow climber
Shadow climber
Nicole sending hard
Nicole sending hard
The classic shot! One of my favorites- ANYWHERE!
The classic shot! One of my favorites- ANYWHERE!
another of scarface
another of scarface
BETA PHOTO
barbie spraying beta
barbie spraying beta
Inspired to make my own version of the epic shots of Scarface
Inspired to make my own version of the epic shots ...
A bit of a thin start
A bit of a thin start
It rains, but it don't matter.....
It rains, but it don't matter.....
Scarface is a fantastic pitch.  Perfect weather first  <br />week in Jan. 2006!
Scarface is a fantastic pitch. Perfect weather fi...
On the onsight of this perfect crack
On the onsight of this perfect crack
Here's a climber on TR.  This picture really doesn't do the climb justice.
Here's a climber on TR. This picture really doesn...
Ben Faber leading the thin hands section up higher.
Ben Faber leading the thin hands section up higher...
Perfect hands await- Scarface, Indian Creek
Perfect hands await- Scarface, Indian Creek
Ben Faber starting the hard fingers start of Scarface
Ben Faber starting the hard fingers start of Scarf...
classic scarface pic.  Just one more thin hands jam before I can fit the whole paw in there...
classic scarface pic. Just one more thin hands ja...
Rivals Wiggins I for the most picturesque climb in the creek
Rivals Wiggins I for the most picturesque climb in...
Eddie getting the last bit of light on Scarface. <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Eddie getting the last bit of light on Scarface.
P...
Well that's not it.  Took the fall after trying a few different left hands at the crux.  L hand thumbs up was the key for me.
Well that's not it. Took the fall after trying a ...
scarface
scarface
CT leading Scarface.
CT leading Scarface.
scarface
scarface
Ginger through the buisness on Scarface, Indian Creek
Ginger through the buisness on Scarface, Indian Cr...
shortly after the thin hands crux with the upcoming sinker part in mind
shortly after the thin hands crux with the upcomin...
Stef on her first 5.11 crack
Stef on her first 5.11 crack
Comments on Scarface Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 3, 2013
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2001
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Cams 1.5"-2.5", until it gets wider at the top (take a few 3"). It is mostly 2" once you get off of the ground. THis is green camalot or purple HB (black metolius?) This climb is relentless, but is easier for people with small hands. GO FOR IT.

By Jared Brown
Feb 19, 2002

I haven't done many routes at IC, or many cracks at all for that matter, but this was a really cool route. The bottom of the route has three or so pods in the crack, and going from the first to the second is much harder is you're short. The hardest part for me was fighting the pump on the thin hands crack after the last pod to a block wedged into the crack. The only downfall is it seems to be the only really good route in the area.

By Jason Wells
Feb 27, 2002

Ooo Jared, don't know if I'd agree with you there. There's quite a few really high-quality climbs right around Scarface (Black Uhuru, Where's Carruthers, Wavy Gravy, etc.). I'd submit them, but I'm too much of a wuss to lead them and I won't submit routes I haven't led.

By Josh Beck
May 13, 2003

This is the most enjoyable single pitch of crack climbing I've ever experienced. Simply a fantastic route.

By Max Schon
May 16, 2003

Obviously Jared hasn't been to the Scarface wall very often. Other than the good routes mentioned by the other person, here are just a few more: Sicilian, Columbian Hitman, Not That Funny, Desert Vaurnet (probably one of the best routes at the Creek)...shall I go on?

By Dan Mottinger
Apr 3, 2006

One of the three bolts at the anchor wiggles around in your hands. This is the center bolt with a large, rounded edge hangar. The other two bolts seem fine and are adequate for an anchor and getting off (have chains between these two).

Super route and still pumpy with a no-gear to clean top rope.

By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Oct 30, 2006

if you have smaller hands, this climb is more of a 5.10. the crux begining is short, and the rest of the crack is stellar hands.

By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The view form here is just awesome!

By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Nov 26, 2007

Agreed with m-earles comments. Its thin hands most of the way then widens some higher up. First 15 ft is slightly overhanging but its hard to tell from photos. It took some cool photos from the top. Will post them later.

By Armin
From: Arvada, CO
Apr 8, 2008

was easier for me NOT to tape up on this one, (I have small hands) the inside is quite worn, so your hands won/t actually get too torn up, enjoy.

By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a four star route because it is such a striking line at the Scarface Wall. I enjoy this route, but I like the "sicilian" much more. Scarface is another Creek route the grade is depending if you have bigger or smaller hands. The beginning is thin, so big handed people are going to have a harder time. How did this thing get downgraded from 11c to 11-?

By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
May 3, 2013

Beautiful line with a fun cruxy start and bomber hands the rest of the way. Once you get past the first 6 meters it's pretty much in the bag and fun as hell.