To find this climb, head left when you reach the base of the wall from the approach trail. Look for the perfect finger and thin hands crack.
Gear for me was as follows: a 1 friend, a purple camalot jr (though a 1.5 friend would have been better), 1 green camalot jr, a 2 friend, 2 red camalots, 2 2.5 friends and 2 gold camalots. If you want to sew it a bit more, bring another 2.5 friend or red camalot and/or a 1 friend. Towards the top, if you're out of hand sized, you can reach to the crack to the right and plug a 1 friend.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 20, 2001
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c
Cams 1.5"-2.5", until it gets wider at the top (take a few 3"). It is mostly 2" once you get off of the ground. THis is green camalot or purple HB (black metolius?) This climb is relentless, but is easier for people with small hands. GO FOR IT.
|By Jared Brown|
Feb 19, 2002
I haven't done many routes at IC, or many cracks at all for that matter, but this was a really cool route. The bottom of the route has three or so pods in the crack, and going from the first to the second is much harder is you're short. The hardest part for me was fighting the pump on the thin hands crack after the last pod to a block wedged into the crack. The only downfall is it seems to be the only really good route in the area.
|By Jason Wells|
Feb 27, 2002
Ooo Jared, don't know if I'd agree with you there. There's quite a few really high-quality climbs right around Scarface (Black Uhuru, Where's Carruthers, Wavy Gravy, etc.). I'd submit them, but I'm too much of a wuss to lead them and I won't submit routes I haven't led.
|By Josh Beck|
May 13, 2003
This is the most enjoyable single pitch of crack climbing I've ever experienced. Simply a fantastic route.
|By Max Schon|
May 16, 2003
Obviously Jared hasn't been to the Scarface wall very often. Other than the good routes mentioned by the other person, here are just a few more: Sicilian, Columbian Hitman, Not That Funny, Desert Vaurnet (probably one of the best routes at the Creek)...shall I go on?
|By Dan Mottinger|
Apr 3, 2006
One of the three bolts at the anchor wiggles around in your hands. This is the center bolt with a large, rounded edge hangar. The other two bolts seem fine and are adequate for an anchor and getting off (have chains between these two).
Super route and still pumpy with a no-gear to clean top rope.
From: Concord, MA
Oct 30, 2006
if you have smaller hands, this climb is more of a 5.10. the crux begining is short, and the rest of the crack is stellar hands.
|By Chris O'Connor|
From: bouldertown, co
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
The view form here is just awesome!
From: Los Angeles
Nov 26, 2007
Agreed with m-earles comments. Its thin hands most of the way then widens some higher up. First 15 ft is slightly overhanging but its hard to tell from photos. It took some cool photos from the top. Will post them later.
From: Arvada, CO
Apr 8, 2008
was easier for me NOT to tape up on this one, (I have small hands) the inside is quite worn, so your hands won/t actually get too torn up, enjoy.
|By Ben Griffin|
From: Durango, CO
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c
This is a four star route because it is such a striking line at the Scarface Wall. I enjoy this route, but I like the "sicilian" much more. Scarface is another Creek route the grade is depending if you have bigger or smaller hands. The beginning is thin, so big handed people are going to have a harder time. How did this thing get downgraded from 11c to 11-?
|By Matt Hoffmann|
May 3, 2013
Beautiful line with a fun cruxy start and bomber hands the rest of the way. Once you get past the first 6 meters it's pretty much in the bag and fun as hell.