|Cima della Madonna
|Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigolo del Velo." || |
Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigolo del Velo."
|Type: ||Trad, 10 pitches, 1350'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA: ||Guenther Langes and Edwin Merlet, 19 July 1920|
|Page Views: ||474|
|Submitted By: ||Rodger Raubach on Nov 20, 2011|
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Rodger Raubach (L) and Giacomo Scalet (R) on summi...
The climb attacks the arete directly and soon passes over the famous "organ pipe holds." The climbing is exceptional and continuously steep. After reaching the top of the initial buttress, continue up the crest of the arete to a second buttress top; a long stretch across a gap to the final headwall is required. The climbing is astounding, on rock resembling a big petrified sponge
Descend via the Winkler chimney between the Cima della Madonna and Sass Maor by a marked 2nd and 3rd class scramble over the summit and down to the rappel anchors. All anchors are fixed and cemented in place. There are a series of four abseils of 20 meters each, with some scrambling and traversing between the second, and beginning the third. Additionally, a short travese is necessary to reach the rings for number 4.
Reach the start from Rifugio del Velo by a track for a via ferrata leading into the big gully left of the peak. Where the trail turns left, climb up some low-5th class rock to a terrace leading to the base of the arete.
All necessary anchors are fixed and most protection is by fixed pitons. Bring a light rack and several slings for threads through natural anchors.
|Photos of Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigolo del Velo." Slideshow
On the middle buttress, Scarf Arete 1963. Giacomo ...
San Martino di Castrozza; from Scarf Are...
Pala di San Martino from summit of Cima della Mado...
Low on Scarf Arete, 1963. Giacomo Scalet leading.
Giacomo Scalet running it out on pitch 2.
Giacomo Scalet on the middle buttress portion of S...
Cima della Madonna from San Martino di Castrozza@S...
|Comments on Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigolo del Velo."
|By Rodger Raubach|
Nov 20, 2011
This was my first-ever climb in the Dolomites in 1963. The Spigolo del Velo is also known as "die Schleierkante" in German. Translated, this is the "edge of the wedding veil." Herman Buhl made the climb famous by his reference as "the heavenly ladder made by God for the climber" comment in Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage. Other authors have stated that the climb is the most beautiful rock climb in the Eastern Alps. Take it from me: they weren't lying about it!
|By Rodger Raubach|
Nov 25, 2011
This route is listed in Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs," as Route 77. The UIAA Grade assigned: Grade V+.