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West Face
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Footloose 'N' Fancy Free S 
Lance T 
Monster Crack T 
Scarecrow T 
Sword in the Stone T,S 

Scarecrow 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Carter and Zeigler (1967)
Page Views: 975
Submitted By: Ben Glover on Sep 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Scarecrow, follow the black crack
Seasonal Closures in place MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Scarecrow is located on the west face of Kindergarten/Grey/Cathedral rock. Look for a large plate like outcropping. In roughly the middle of the face is a black (magnesium?) scarred hand crack (located conveniently between Monster Crack and Lance).

To gain access to the crack you'll need to either power up and over a hollow sounding bulge (great texture and seemingly solid jugs) or start a bit right and climb a ramp (allegedly slightly easier, but I haven't taken this route). Either way you'll have a hard time plugging solid gear for the first 20 feet.

Once you've reached the crack, the fun begins. One of two crux's is shortly above the ledge (you'll note 1-2 pitons denoting hard climbing). Climbing is a mix of face and jams on well textured rock. Plow upward and you'll face an easier crux a bit shy of the anchors.

Based on the number of ascents of time, I'd suggest that the rock is more durable than it sounds. If you're not into placing gear in hollow sounding Garden rock, climb lance or monster and belay from the top. You'll need two 50m ropes for the rappel.

Did I mention that this was really well-textured rock?


Protection 

Nuts and small cams will plug most of the crack. Anchor is two 3/8" bolts.



Photos of Scarecrow Slideshow Add Photo
Scarecrow flake - showing 3 routes.
BETA PHOTO: Scarecrow flake - showing 3 routes.
Dan 2x rope rappel off of Scarecrow, 2013.
Dan 2x rope rappel off of Scarecrow, 2013.
Comments on Scarecrow Add Comment
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By Chris R
Aug 22, 2003

This is a climb for the bold, fearless leader. In TR'ing this line last night, I pulled or kicked off three large rocks. The "pull down not out" Garden mantra doesn't help much here, as the rock hasn't really cleaned up with traffic. The lower section of the line is fairly loose rock; more traffic won't help too much. Personally, I wouldn't lead it, not having much confidence leading 10b on scant, hollow pro.This line deserves an "R" rating, there isn't much natural pro in the lower 40 feet.To TR, climb Monster Crack (worthy) or Lance (bomb) to the anchors. We were able to TR with a long cordalette off the anchors (to get over a sharp edge) using a single 60m. Once the cordalette was removed, through, rappelling from a single 60m off the anchors didn't quite reach the ground, short by about 5-10ft.

Not a line I would recommend to the visiting climber, but worth doing if (like myself) you've climbed most everything else at the Garden.

By Larry Shaw
Nov 17, 2003

I've tried both the direct start and the one 20ft. to the right. Both are very loose and both go virtually unprotected for the first 40ft. I recommend the right start, it's a little safer. Once on the first ledge the climbing is good right away and turns into a nice hand crack near the belay....to bad the start sucked or this would be more popular.

By kevin jenkins
Sep 4, 2004

I'm not sure if fear can be factored into a rating, but if so this might be placed a little higher. Chris R mentioned that it would be difficult to lead a the fist 40 feet are rather void of natural protection. I would recommend, as Larry does, that you take to the right side. It's a great lead for the ballsy, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who doesn't consistently climb 5.11 or .12.

By Rik Anderson
From: C/S, Colorado/Talkeetna, Alask
Mar 26, 2006

The start is definitely for the bold. If you do the direct start, don't bother with trying to place any gear, you'll just burn your energy for the real fun. I have managed to get in a piece for the mind only, not for the body, now I just climb it. If you don't lead .10+ comfortably don't even try this one.

By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 25, 2009

I finally led this climb today via the direct start. There's a great #0.5 Camalot which protects the overhang at the bottom. Get up to the bulge, then step a little left and you'll see this nice horizontal placement. It's still a bit exciting because of the nature of the rock and the steepness, but if you fall there, you will not deck. Once you gain the ledge, there's plenty of gear in the crack above, so get on this climb!

By Stewart M. Green
Sep 28, 2009

Nice, Bo. Jimmie Dunn and I did the first free ascent on the lead of Scarecrow in 1972. I led that first bit to the ledge, no pro, and belayed. JD led the upper crack. We had top-roped it before, but it was really loose.

By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 2, 2009

Thanks, Stewart! Even better job back in the day! Puts so much into perspective....

By Kyle Rodman
Jun 30, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Great climb and a very fun lead. If it weren't for the first twenty feet, this would be an absolute Garden classic. I found a couple marginal placements behind flakes on the right slab start.