Scarecrow 

This is a climb for the bold, fearless leader. In TR'ing this line last night, I pulled or kicked off three large rocks. The "pull down not out" Garden mantra doesn't help much here, as the rock hasn't really cleaned up with traffic. The lower section of the line is fairly loose rock; more traffic won't help too much. Personally, I wouldn't lead it, not having much confidence leading 10b on scant, hollow pro.This line deserves an "R" rating, there isn't much natural pro in the lower 40 feet.To TR, climb Monster Crack (worthy) or Lance (bomb) to the anchors. We were able to TR with a long cordalette off the anchors (to get over a sharp edge) using a single 60m. Once the cordalette was removed, through, rappelling from a single 60m off the anchors didn't quite reach the ground, short by about 5-10ft.

Not a line I would recommend to the visiting climber, but worth doing if (like myself) you've climbed most everything else at the Garden.

I've tried both the direct start and the one 20ft. to the right. Both are very loose and both go virtually unprotected for the first 40ft. I recommend the right start, it's a little safer. Once on the first ledge the climbing is good right away and turns into a nice hand crack near the belay....to bad the start sucked or this would be more popular.

I'm not sure if fear can be factored into a rating, but if so this might be placed a little higher. Chris R mentioned that it would be difficult to lead a the fist 40 feet are rather void of natural protection. I would recommend, as Larry does, that you take to the right side. It's a great lead for the ballsy, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone who doesn't consistently climb 5.11 or .12.

The start is definitely for the bold. If you do the direct start, don't bother with trying to place any gear, you'll just burn your energy for the real fun. I have managed to get in a piece for the mind only, not for the body, now I just climb it. If you don't lead .10+ comfortably don't even try this one.

I finally led this climb today via the direct start. There's a great #0.5 Camalot which protects the overhang at the bottom. Get up to the bulge, then step a little left and you'll see this nice horizontal placement. It's still a bit exciting because of the nature of the rock and the steepness, but if you fall there, you will not deck. Once you gain the ledge, there's plenty of gear in the crack above, so get on this climb!

Nice, Bo. Jimmie Dunn and I did the first free ascent on the lead of Scarecrow in 1972. I led that first bit to the ledge, no pro, and belayed. JD led the upper crack. We had top-roped it before, but it was really loose.

Thanks, Stewart! Even better job back in the day! Puts so much into perspective....