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 ADVANCED
Feudal Wall (Left Side)
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Route 1326 
Scaramouch 
Swishbah 

Scaramouch 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II British: D 2c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,452
Submitted By: Steve Powell on Mar 31, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: "Scaramouch".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This easy route allows access to Coyote In the Bushes (5.10a). The bottom half of the route is fun.


Protection 

small to large cams or nuts



Photos of Scaramouch Slideshow Add Photo
The climber just finished the first half of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: The climber just finished the first half of the cl...
Two climbers finishing the last half of the climb.
BETA PHOTO: Two climbers finishing the last half of the climb.
Scaramouch and Feudal Wall formation.
BETA PHOTO: Scaramouch and Feudal Wall formation.
Comments on Scaramouch Add Comment
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By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Sep 16, 2005
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c

I just noticed that the poster of this route has the "Bomb" on it...I totally disagree...sure it is quite easy...for those with a decent amount of experience...but for the beginner, and as a "First lead", it is perfect!!! I have used this route many times to teach how to place pro and basic "Crack" techniques...it also allows for good "anchor" work...not a bomb in my opinion...also it is a blast for those that enjoy easier soloing.....

By Blitzo
Sep 8, 2006

Fun solo! Fun variation following jugs to the right of the crack.

By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Dec 26, 2006
rating: 5.2 3 8 II D 2c

I agree it is a fun solo although a few hand holds are coming loose. Dont pull to hard

By Josh Hibbard
From: Los Angeles Area, CA
Mar 26, 2007

I agree with Locker. This route was my first trad lead four years ago. I have used this route twice to teach others on their first trad climbs...An enjoyable route for beginners.

By colin tuck
From: Fairbanks
Dec 22, 2008

good first lead, and fun solo. I took two friends here for their first leads on the same day, and solo cleaned both times.

By Eric O'Rafferty
From: Altadena, CA
Feb 25, 2009

Yup, definitely a good first lead.

I think even I could solo this climb!

By Rodger Raubach
Mar 11, 2011
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III VD 3a

A great warm up, or introduction climb in JTree. I thought 5.2/5.3, but at that level, who cares? The start has gotten a bit thin over the years, due to holds breaking off.

By agd
Dec 30, 2011

Feels like fourth class. Not worth doing, unless you need a quick way to the top. I only placed one piece in the first section and climbed up to the bolt anchor on top of Swishbah.

I don't think this is a good first trad lead because of the lack of placement opportunities.