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Dozier Dome
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Unsorted Routes:

Scandalous Summer 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Shewchuk, Grant Hiskes & Bill Serniuk (Blitzo), 2004.
Page Views: 1,554
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 8, 2006
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Description 

A fun, easy climb at the far left of the wall.
Climb low angle knobs past 5 bolts to a ledge with trees. Rappel.


Location 

Left of Corporal Klinger.


Protection 

Draws.



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By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Good warmup. Crux after last bolt.

By Bruce Hildenbrand
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

There are seven bolts on this climb, not five. And,for some reason they FA party didn't use the washer which comes with Rawl "5-piece" bolts to help distribute the load between the bolt head and the hanger. Lastly, I believe the 3rd(or was it the 4th) bolt has the metal sleeve partly protruding and smashed flat to the rock. Not a very good bolting job, IMHO.

By Nicole Belle Isle
From: San Jose, CA
Aug 14, 2013

please reclassify this as sport rather than trad, thanks

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 14, 2013

Hi Nicole,

I noticed that you have posted several comments regarding changing route definitions from trad to sport, so here is the reason why these routes are listed as trad. In general most folks define a route to be sport if it is all bolted and the bolts are closely spaced. There are many, many all bolted climbs in Tuolumne that certainly do not meet this criteria (i.e. they are way runout). Thus if a route is all bolted, but is runout at all, most people denote it as a trad route to signify to interested parties that they should not expect sport bolt spacing. Its not a perfect way of defining a route, but it is pretty widespread amongst the community.

I hope that helps.
Cheers.

By Nicole Belle Isle
From: San Jose, CA
Sep 30, 2013

Thanks for the clarification, J. It would make it easier to search the site for climbs that entail placing gear versus those which require only draws if these were classified as "sport" but I certainly understand the point behind classifying Tuolumne runouts as trad climbs, and appreciate your explanation. I deleted my other similar comments :)