|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||T. Swain, P. Ross, 12/98|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Jan 1, 2003|
|Comments on Scalawag||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 18, 2005
I have to disagree with the route posters assesment of this climb (and actually, the entire area). Scalawag is sort of a one move wonder, to be sure, but the climbing up to the move is fairly stout and a fall would certainly put you on the deck. The rack mentioned is probably excessive. A #2 and a #3 camalot suffice below the roof and then above, a couple of smallish pieces along with a few stoppers and an alien or two make your anchor.
A single 60m rope gets you back to the deck.
Overall, the climbing is pleasant and quite good, in my opinion. definitely not a climb to miss if you're a 5.9 climber with some muscle.
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
|I agree with tradguy on the muscle. The roof is very protectable. I would add the inclusion of a 3.5 inch piece however.|
By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Jan 9, 2011
|too bad there isn't some more sustained climbing after the roof, would make this a great climb. Great climb for pictures!|
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
May 29, 2012
|This thing looks like 5.11 from below but climbs two grades easier (and I agree with the one-move-wonderness). Brute strength and grunting is helpful.|