Scalamander 5.11-
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11- [details] |
| FA: | Dan and Tina Godshall |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Spring/Summer/Fall |
| Submitted By: | Dan G0D5H411 on Dec 13, 2012 |
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Follow the steep incuts and pods to the left of th...
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Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>
Please do your best to maintain good relationships with the people who own the land in this area. Do not drive your vehicle past the "private property" sign. Do not go up to the house to ask for directions to the crag. Do not ride your bike down the road. Please move immediately to the side of the road if any landowners are approaching in their vehicles.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Four sticky feet would certainly help you on this steep route! Instead you will have to fire the long crux move and be efficient with gear spotting/placement as you pass through a smattering of jugs to reach the vertical face above. From here, angle towards a pillar below the right side of the looming roofs above. An airy traverse left through the overlaps deposits you at the anchors.
Location Once you have found the Swamp alcove, locate the wall with Bury The Bone on it. This route sits on the far right side of the same wall.
Protection A single bolt keeps you off the deck during the crux move. Otherwise, an emphasis on thin fingers, and a single rack up to fists. 2 bolt anchor with chains.
By Dan G0D5H411 From: Colorado Springs, CO Feb 3, 2013
| Thanks to a previous poster who pointed out that there is a loose block near the crux section of this route. It sits up and to the right of the good, right-hand crimp you use to execute the crux move. I don't recall my hands or feet brushing up against the brick-sized block, but I am a bit on the short side. I will try to get out and clean it off as soon as I am back on my feet again. |
By Chris Miller-McLemore Feb 8, 2013
| I got on this route two weeks ago with Dan and had no trouble with the crux lunge (I'm 6' 1"). Fun, juggy climbing after that for an enjoyable route - just to throw in my opinion. |
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