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Sawmill Crags

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Black Creek Wall 
Rough Neck Wall 

Sawmill Crags Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike Morin on Jan 26, 2013
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Lisa on the crux of P1 during the FA.

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  • Description 

    Located on the N.E. corner of the park, this area hosts a couple of crags worth exploring. Please note that some of the formations in this area are off-limits due to their being in a closed, sensitive area. The sensitive area designation is in place to protect a rare species of plant called the Weber's Monkey flower.

    Getting There 

    Follow Staunton Ranch trail for approximately 2.2 miles to the intersection with Old Mill trail. Old Mill trail is hiker only, so leave your bike here if you brought it. Hike up Old Mill for 0.9 miles to the old mill site and the intersection with Mason Creek trail and Border Line. Follow descriptions on the individual crag pages for details on access from this point.

    Climbing Season

    For the Staunton State Park area.

    Weather station 8.9 miles from here

    1 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

    Featured Route For Sawmill Crags
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa on the crux of P1 during the FA.

    Donuts and Nicotine 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13  CO : South Platte : ... : Rough Neck Wall
    This is an adventurous route that follows the most obvious, diagonal splitter on the wall.P1. (10+, 110 feet) Start on the right side of a pillar, and work your way up and slightly right to a splitter hand crack in a corner. At the first roof, stay left (though a sick looking variation would go right), and encounter the strange crux followed by another, shorter roof above. Belay above the second roof.P2, (9, 165 feet) This is an airy pitch that begins by climbing the crack above the belay unti...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

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