This route features 3-star climbing on 2-star rock. It may clean up in time, but for now the route is a little chossy in places. It's quite steep and the pro is tricky at the crux. Very fun, with nice rest ledges. Walk off right.
This route is located on the southwest-facing Savvy Dome, on the taller, righthand section of rock. It is about 8 feet to the left of Shame - a very thin 5.10c seam.
Up to #1 Camalot. Build an anchor with gear.
|By Brandt Allen|
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 2, 2009
The rock on this route is actually quite good and the pro is pretty straightforward. A few small cams protect the crux very well.
|By Ryan Kelly|
Apr 15, 2010
Sustained fun moves on great holds for almost half a rope-length. If this was in HVCG there's be a line on it daily. A must do if in the area.
Jan 20, 2012
This was just ok. I didn't have alot of confidence in the rock either. Worth doing if you're walking by but I think there are better routes within a few hundred yards for sure.
Nov 22, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Good route, solid rock quality. Started by traversing in from the left to avoid stepping on the cactus at the base of the crack. Crux up high was protected with a marginal 0 C3 (red) and a good #1 TCU. Didn't use anything bigger than a #1 camalot. After pulling through, you can protect that clutch right finger pocket with a #3 master cam. Lots of ledges make for bad fall potential, but you can place great gear overhead before getting making the moves off each ledge. Sling boulders + nuts for top anchor.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Nice line and probably best if combined with a day at The Brown Wall. Easy walk off climber's right. Route based is flanked with two very nice sets of cactus. Lots of anchor options up top cams, nuts, hand size to 3" plus a nice belay.