Saved by the Bell
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Kat A. gets started on the trad portion of 'Saved ...
This corner left of Epiphany is nicer and cleaner than it looks. Start just left of Arms Bazaar at the shared start for Epiphany. Work through the steep moves down low, clip the bolt, and head up into a groove. Easy climbing past a two bolt anchor (not sure why its there?) takes you to the base of the flake and dihedral system. Climb the crack with good jams and lieback moves, past the upper crux near the top. The hardest climbing is near the ground by the first bolt, but a section of 10+ or 11- exists near the top of the crack system. The protection is solid throughout.
A bolt protects the initial (crux) section, a 2 bolt anchor can be clipped above that, then all natural gear to the 2 bolt anchor on top. Medium and large nuts, camming devices (1 each) from 1/2-inch to a #3 Camalot.
Kat A. approaches the second crux of Saved By the ...
|Comments on Saved by the Bell
Aug 24, 2009
This is a really nice route. Well protected, long, with a second crux near the top. The only detraction is a little bid of bird crap and a bit of lichen. There is a blocky section midway up, but it is easy to work around it. I thought this was one of the better gear lines in the canyon.
|By Keen Butterworth|
Aug 26, 2009
Surprisingly good and easily overlooked. I never even really noticed it before. D'Antonio's new guidebook doesn't have this route listed and shows it on the topo as Epiphany Variation, but after reading the route description for that on MP (called Epiphany Direct) that route is obviously over to the right, and strays off of Epiphany, as you would expect.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2012
After a few years of additional traffic, the bird doo and lichen is pretty much gone and the route is cleaner.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Dec 2, 2012
This route is actually pretty good and takes a pretty distinct line. Good job to the FA crew on this one. I think the route's crux is a legitimate Bocan 11a and is also pretty height dependent. My girlfriend had difficulties through the crux because of her height or lack thereof. The crux face climbing is a bit devious. The upper dihedral is excellent 5.8ish climbing to a really great, mid-10 crux. All in all, this is a great gear lead and would serve as a great warm up for Arms Bizaar, The Spoils, etc. Also a #4 Camalot can be placed on route in a wider section about half-way up.