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Save the Shrimp 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 1980 JD & SF
Season: Any - when not closed for raptures
Page Views: 777
Submitted By: Fussman on Jun 15, 2011
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Pitch 4 Save the Shrimp
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  • Description 

    This route has friction, cracks, traverses, overhangs, water grooves and more and is an absolute blast. There are some areas where the route is run out, but at most of the critical areas there is sufficient pro. You can easily exit the route at pitch 2.

    Pitch 1 is primarily friction - 5.7Crux
    Pitch 2 is friction, a dihedral crack, face climbing and overhang finish into a cave-You can walk off the route from here if desired. Crux5.7-5.8
    Pitch 3 is 3 progressive overhangs with great rest points - Crux5.8
    Pitch 4 is friction - Crux5.8
    Pitch 5 starts with a 15ft crack to a water groove and then huge ledge - Crux5.8
    Pitch 6 starts with a overhang off the ledge and then follows a water groove with face climbing, ending with another overhang and face climbing. - Crux5.8

    The crux of the route is about halfway into the route transitioning from the lower face to the upper face. The 4th pitch has a traverse with little pro (at least back in the 80's). I would assume by now that some bolts have been added to key areas of the route. The entire route was originally done with sparse pro, sparse bolts, tricams and stoppers. Modern gear makes it much more enjoyable and protected.


    Location 

    Approx 150 feet along the first remants of cliff on the trail that goes to the main face. You will go past a gulley that goes up the left side of the face. The exit is approx 150 feet below the trail that is on the top of the mountain. There is the remnants of a trail through the trees at the top. Take the main trail down to the parking lot.


    Protection 

    -Full rack of cams
    -Plenty of small tricams
    -Full rack of stoppers
    -Long slings
    -Cliff hanger with a water bottle to protect part of the pitch 4 traverse
    -Do not know the statis of the bolts currently on the route.
    -Full length rope and second rope if you have to rap off.



    Photos of Save the Shrimp Slideshow Add Photo
    Save the Shrimp, Whiteside Mtn, NC
    Save the Shrimp, Whiteside Mtn, NC
    Save the Shrimp Redrawn Topo
    BETA PHOTO: Save the Shrimp Redrawn Topo
    Comments on Save the Shrimp Add Comment
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    By Jeff Mekolites
    From: HOTlanta, GA
    Nov 11, 2013
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c PG13

    Just a couple of notes...

    Got a old topo of this route that was first done in 1980. The start might be a bit hard to find but you wanna be below and slighly right of the big overhanging SW arete feature (Gorilla's Face). Pitch 1 Slab and face climb up and left passing one bolt gear to 2 bolt belay (if you see a right facing dihedral with a right arching roof you are on route). Pitch 2 Climb mentioned dihedral then step left out roof to face climb to a ledge. Pitch 3 Short climbing up steep face past big holds to ledge. Belay at fixed rope and trees (we combined these two pitches). Pitch 4 Traverse left on "Indian Ledges" until able to pull roof to face and 2 bolt anchor. Pitch 5 Traverse right to grassy ramp angling slightly upward to 2 bolt belay. Pitch 6 Continue right to flake pasted on wall continue to ledge and gear belay. Pitch 7 Up a water groove past 1 bolt gear to single bolt below the treeline.

    Bolts are one "newer" one and on ancient one at most belays.

    While not as long, committing and hard as other Whiteside routes Save the Shrimp offers a good mix of exciting Whiteside style climbing.