Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
E Wall (aka F & part of G Faces)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Army of Ants 
Barbara TR 
Double Traverse TR 
Double Traverse Straight Up TR 
Luna TR 
Savage Direct TR 
Savage Place TR 
Sigma TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Savage Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: dragons on Dec 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is just right of Savage Place on E Wall. From the wide ledge where the route starts, go up and a little to the right. When you reach the ledge where Savage Place follows a thick flake, go up to the right of that flake, which is off-route. There's a thin flake nearby which appears to be legal. You'll have to look around carefully for holds.

Boston Rocks guide gives Savage Direct a grade of 5.9. Either I'm doing it wrong, or it's just not comparable to other 5.9s at Quincy. It's more like a Quincy 5.7+.

Location 

This route is right of Savage Place, which is the left-most route on E Wall. To get to the bottom of the route, climb up from the water's edge to a broad ledge (10+ feet wide). The route starts here, near the left corner.

Protection 

One bolt at the top near the edge and a small sturdy tree about 10 feet back from the bolt. You can climb Savage Direct and Savage Place using the same anchor.


Comments on Savage Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 13, 2011

I think you may be getting some other holds involved, Dragon. SD is pretty thin and the crux involves a bit of a pop move to a pocket just below the top. Quarries 5.9.
I fell off this move, soloing, when the pocket was full of water. Not good, I went all the way down to the ledge at the bottom.