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Saul's Crack 
Sloth (HVS 5a), The 

Saul's Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joe Brown 1947
Season: When it's dry
Page Views: 596
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Nov 23, 2007
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Tony at the crux.


A Joe Brown tour-de-force and a must-do while visiting.

Easily at first up to beneath and slightly right of the corner crack, now the fun begins; somehow gain the corner and jam/lieback up it to the overhang. Go through the overhang (crux) to easier climbing.


Left of the big roof of The Sloth, a crack runs up a left facing corner and through a small overhang.


Nuts and cams.

Photos of Saul's Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Getting to grips with the corner crack.
Getting to grips with the corner crack.
Comments on Saul's Crack Add Comment
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By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 23, 2007

5.9 just doesn't describe this route - I have a lot of history with this one, a love/hate relationship I suppose. Got badly spanked on my first attempt, in those days it was rated "VS" .

By Nick Russell
From: Bristol, UK
Jul 8, 2013

Maybe it's just that my jamming is a bit rusty, but I definitely found the bulge beneath the roof to be the crux. The roof itself was gymnastic, but pretty straightforward.