Saturnalia 

Seconding Tony on this, I damaged a hold below the first bolt (see the first picture below). It's loose but I couldn't totally pull it off. If you elect to run it out to the first bolt, this hold could be a nasty surprise. If you place the nuts shown in the picture, you will be fine. If you think you can remove the baseball-sized loose part safely, please do. It will not drastically affect the difficulty of the climb.

Following Bryson on this route, I too encounter loose rock below the first bolt. Use extreme caution in this area, as it is very likey that any rock knocked off will land on the road below. And there is plenty of loose rock in this section. I broke off a foot hold yesterday, which scared the hell out of me, but did sail clear of people on XM. Yikes!!

I think staying low and traversing out left after putting (or cleaning) gear in the crack will help you avoid the worst section of rock, though this may add to the difficulty.

The first ascent was previewed and then led with long slings hanging from gear, with clip-ins roughly where the 2 bolts are now placed. Rumor has the pitch was led by Charlie Fowler in the '80s.

One star, at most. Loose, yes. Spice, yes. Didn't pass mustard on public nor FHRC vote first time through. Persistence on the part of the retro-bolter did push it through the second time.

Clipping the 1st bolt can also be done solidly from a big side-pull on the left and this is better for a shorter person. Or anyone really.

Yes, traversing lower past those 1st nuts is better - I didn't use that "loose" hold for much more than balance but if someone wants to pry it off then go for it.

Yes, I did rap down to clean what I could, and did hang slings .... from RPs. Mea Culpa.

If Charlie did lead it, then he must have used some other Very Loose Holds that were balanced up there...not to mention front-pointing on the lichen I cleaned. Lichen grows very slowly so maybe it was Lewis & Clark who did the FA....

This is a serious route, but not 'very serious'. It's not "for the masses" If you're not up for it then fine, but don't whine about it.

Regarding the first ascent. I did not know that there was new first ascent standard in Eldorado, the "rumor has it" standard. If we start with that we will never end. Steve, I think it is best to do your fact checking correctly and explain who, what, when and where rather than starting a cascade of dubious revisions. Now I am concerned to think that you might be writing a guidebook to this area. The "rumor has it" guidebook is bound to be an interesting one....

Saturnalia, together with Innerspace is one of the better pitches in the Bastille. It is a great final pitch to many of the cool three pitch link ups that the Bastille has to offer. It provides a great alternative to the often crowded and overclimbed Outerspace. I like very much the fact that it provides a bit of pumpy climbing over the roof, as well as a techincal, thin crux higher up. If finished via Lost in Space it is just a great pitch. As for loose rock, I don't think there is any at all, but of course that is a subjective appreciation.

I think it deserves 3 stars.
rolo

Rolo- I too think Saturnalia is a great pitch (read my route description "The Spice Tour").

I was on the FHRC at the time, and voted to approve the retro-bolting of the line that Steve Dieckhoff and Mike Gilbert had already claimed as a first ascent. I mentioned the fact that their ascent was done with pre-placed gear (nothing wrong with that and no reason to take offense) for anyone who might care about the history of the route.

Rumors, as you must know, most often have no basis in fact, nor do they need to be defended, as you suggest. A rumor is simply a rumor- again, no need to take offense with what I wrote above.

I can assure you that I am doing as thorough a job as possible in uncovering the accurate history of first ascents in the canyon. I can also assure you that your "concern" that I am the one writing this guide will turn to appreciation once you see it.

Saturnalia is certainly a worthwhile route to finish on. Pumpy, rough rock and a thin, balancy sequence at the end make it all the more satisfying. But there is loose rock up there, and it isn't as good or sustained as some other climbing on other, three-star routes. I give it two stars for quality. Rumor has it that Charlie climbed just about everything in Eldorado Canyon. Mentioning this isn't an attempt to set a standard by which first ascents are graded. Merely a way of keeping people honest. Giving historical value.
When it comes to trad first ascents in Eldorado, one can't always be sure that someone hasn't come before. At the time, when the name was proposed there was a lot of speculation about who might have first climbed the rock that became the route known as Saturnalia before Michael and Steve got their fair due.
It only adds interest that CF might have gone up there before anyone else. Who knows? Maybe Duncan soloed the thing.

Three stars for sure! Pumpy, overhanging climbing to airy arete slapping and crimping; how could this not be three stars?

Seems 90% of the loose rock has been taken off by past parties. We too found that square hold (on the traverse to the first bolt) to be loose, so we took it home. Thanks to all who cleaned the route.

After getting to the first bolt, I took a huge sigh of relief, and was pleased to find no more long/dangerous runouts. I was also happy to be very tall while clipping the second bolt!

All and all, great climb.