|259 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.9+ [details]|
|FA: ||(TR) Todd Swain & Peggy Buckey, November 1989, FL: Jeff Rhoads & Andy Brown, November 1989|
|Submitted By: ||C Miller on Jan 1, 2005|
BETA PHOTO: "Saturn Sheets".
Photo by Blitzo.
Climb an easy ramp up to the base of a headwall and then climb large edges to a very high first bolt (a fall before the first bolt would be bad). Once the first bolt is reached well protected thin edges/smears lead up and right to another bolt near the southwest arete which is then followed to the summit of the formation.
Good climbing but the lack of protection at the start makes this a climb only for those not leading at their limit. One star out of five.
West face of the Planet X Pinnacle, right of Planet Y is this all bolted route that is not a sport climb.
2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")
|Comments on Saturn Sheets
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 28, 2010
One move slopers/friction crux low to good edges. Didn't know the rating while on it and commented after "could be 10-, could be 5.8...who knows". Funny that the guidebook says 8, MP as high as 10-. Hard to know when it's just about whether your rubber and skin sticks.
|By Russ Walling|
Oct 16, 2011
rating: 5.9 R
Ok route since you are there already with a TR going... leading it is sorta lame and forced with the high bolt situation. Bring an extendo runner and snake it through the plates on top, backed up with the bolts, to TR after doing Planet X.
As a side note, the beta pic is showing the route going somewhat straight up from the first bolt. The second bolt and route actually goes pretty far to the right of the drawn in line, and is closer to the skyline than depicted in the beta shot.