Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Columns
Select Route:
3rd Column Jam T,TR 
4th Column Jam T,TR 
Bat Crack T,TR 
Chimney, The T,TR 
Crack a No Go T 
Fat Crack T 
Hard Lieback T 
Left Ski Track T,TR 
Limp Dick T 
Main Chimney T,TR 
Satisfaction T 
Transportation Route T,TR 

Satisfaction 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: When Dry
Page Views: 759
Submitted By: Karsten on Jan 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This climb has become a testpiece for locals. Satisfaction is a thin seam up a shallow dihedral. Other routes are sometimes within reach but are considered "off" to get the standard .11 rating. The somewhat contrived line is usually done with a combination of tenuous stemming and tips locks in pin scars. As the season progresses it tends to get harder as the shoe rubber and grime build-up.

If you eschew the face holds and stick to the crack it increases the grade a few ticks.


Protection 

small wires and cams (offsets nuts and cams useful)



Comments on Satisfaction Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I won't dispute the 5.12 grade for a straight-on, holds-only-within-6-inches-of-the-crack send. That said, while it may be technically easier, its far less secure to spread out and stem.

Also, if you reach over to Hard Lieback, it drops it down into the mid 10 range, and I suspect is where the name for that line comes from.

Awesome line on pinscars and tips locks!

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Dec 14, 2013

Way back in the day when crack climbing was the name of the game, Alan Watts trained for hard cracks in a multitude of ways. His self described coup de grace of cheap stunts was climbing Satisfaction one handed by lunging between the fingerlocks!