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The Satisfaction Wall
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Bad Hair Day T 
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No Refund S 
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Tequila Maria S 
Two Finger Limit S 
Useless Beauty S 

Satisfaction Guaranteed 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Doug Cosby, Ken McLean 1991
Page Views: 6,331
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (118)
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Mike on Satisfaction Guaranteed

Description 

Pull the low roof on positive holds and then trend up the slightly slabby face via technical movement to a rest at two-thirds height. Step left to a corner and rail below the roof. Monkey out the roof and trend up the slightly overhanging headwall to a bolted anchor. Classic!

Location 

After passing the Long Wall, the best of the next group of climbs (the Lichen Wall) is Satisfaction Guaranteed, an obvious face climb leading up to a large roof.

Protection 

8 bolts to bolted anchor.


Photos of Satisfaction Guaranteed Slideshow Add Photo
The start
The start
The roof
The roof

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By jsustrich
2 days ago
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

One of the best climbs I've been on so far at the New. Powerful, boulder-y start to a broken finger crack (no jamming necessary) to some thin slab, to a really powerful roof move, then just some slabby/slopey stuff at the top.

Clip from one of the decent ledges on the rail below the roof, get back as much energy as possible, pull the roof, get up to the decent jug above it and make sure you don't blow the clip (it would blow). Holds get continuously better as you pull above the bulge after this clip (the diagonal finger cracky thing blows).

If you have the chance, GET ON THIS ROUTE.
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