This route is awesome. It is kinda like Dolofright's big brother (although it is probably quite a bit safer) -- another amazing find by Tom Gilje. It ascends the north face of Disappearing Angel (good for hotter temps) in two pitches... a little bit of crack climbing leads to some pretty rad face climbing.
P1: Climb the gradually widening crack to where it ends, clip a bolt, and pull a burly hand traverse straight left for 15 feet (crux!). The falls are wild and scary, but clean. At the end of the traverse, mantle up, and clip 5 or 6 more bolts as you face climb up to a nice belay ledge. The passage is interesting and unlikely, and all the more so with the fragile holds. One section on this pitch (moving to the anchor) warrants a serious rating. You may wish to clip the first bolt on the second pitch to protect the second. 100', 5.12.
P2: Move right and then up a short, funky corner. From here, traverse back left 30 feet through some seriously crumbly rock to a belay around the corner on the east face of the tower. A short fifth class scramble leads to the summit and a rap anchor. 100', 5.11. Two raps back down the route with a single 60m rope.
P1: A single set of cams from 0.1 Camalot (00 TCU/Black Alien) to #3 Camalot and a bunch of draws & slings. No wires needed. I highly recommend using double rope technique for this pitch: Bring a single 60m cord, but tie into both ends. After the hand traverse, begin clipping the other end of the rope. There is a good stance after a bolt or two to untie (and drop to the ground) whichever end of the rope is causing the most drag.
P2: Bring the 0.1 and 0.2 Camalots (00 and 0 TCU's) only, and a bunch of draws & slings.
BETA PHOTO: Disappearing Angel from the upper hidden valley ap...
Jake Warren following pitch 2 of Satan's Revenge.
|By Geoff Unger|
From: Moab, UT
Dec 16, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13
Great info Josh. I climbed this thing the other day with my friend Jake Warren. I would say that the beta for the rack was right on and the climbing was serious and challenging, but not as dangerous as Dolofright. Definitely a warm weather route. Maybe October or March instead of December.
I would like to mention that the rappel anchor on the summit of this route is not ideal. There is one good drilled angle and a bolt that is not great. Whoever placed it may not have drilled their hole deep enough or the bolt is pulling out of the soft cap rock. When I go up there in warmer temperatures to redpoint this route, I will bring a bolt kit to replace this bolt and install chain unless Sam Lightner gets there first! It is interesting to me to see that the first pitch anchor has good bolts and solid links, but then the summit anchor is a bit less solid.
|By Josh Janes|
Dec 16, 2010
Nice photos, and Jake, nice shirt.
I would venture to guess that the summit anchor was from before Gilje's ascent, whereas all the other bolts are from the mid 90's. I especially like how the bolt protecting the start of the (leftwards) hand traverse is placed out right instead of in a more logical place. I can just see Gilje chuckling as he placed it thinking about the huge swings that would ensue.
Did you use double rope technique?
|By Matt Pickren|
Nov 6, 2011
Climbed this route with Bill G. this past May. Amazing quality of mixed climbing. The crack is very good, solid, and challenging and the face climbing above is 5 stars. I would say the traverse is better and harder than Way Rambo.
I used a single rope and it was not that bad, just clip 24 inch runners on the bolts and leave your last cam low before the traverse. I believe I also reached low, after the traverse at the good stance, and removed a draw (I think this is the 2nd bolt?). All in all, I had minimal rope drag at the anchors. Highly recommended route.
And yes, the summit anchor was shit as of May 2011, however Sam said he had replaced the anchor on the summit for the Bjornsted route out of the notch. I never saw it, but also never looked.